Hiking in North Devon: Woolacombe to Ilfracombe Walk

I recently spent a wonderful week in North Devon, hiking on the South West Coast Path, exploring the beautiful coastal villages, and enjoying the best of the local food. The weather was just glorious, sunny and warm every day, which made the scenery look even more spectacular. There are plenty of hikes in North Devon, and the first one I attempted was the Woolacombe to Ilfracombe walk. And I couldn’t have received a better introduction of what North Devon has to offer: dramatic scenery, with tall cliffs along the coastline, wildflowers growing along narrow paths, waves violently crashing onto rocky, empty beaches, an incredible turquoise shade of blue of the sea, and, plenty of sightings of seals and gannets. 

In this article I will tell you everything you need to know about hiking from Woolacombe Bay to Ilfracombe on the South West Coast Path.

About Woolacombe

Woolacombe is a small village in North Devon, famous for its long, sandy beach, awarded many times as one of the best in the UK, and popular for surfing, being one of the best in the country due to the large waves.

In Woolacombe you will find plenty of cafes and restaurants, as well as bars where you can enjoy a drink while watching the sunset. It was my base for the few days when I was in Devon so I explored quite a bit of the local food and drinks in the village.

Even though Woolacombe itself is very small, it’s surrounded by stunning scenery. Besides the Woolacombe to Ilfracombe hike, there are plenty of other trails going to Croyde, Baggy Point, or the other side of the beach.

Where to Stay in Woolacombe

During my trip to North Devon I stayed at Woolacombe Bay Holiday Park, in a Gold Caravan which I reviewed here. I loved the location on top of the hill, overlooking Woolacombe beach. I loved the facilities of the park and the outdoor heated swimming pool, which made it so easy to relax my muscles after the long hikes that I went on every day.

About the Woolacombe to Ilfracombe Walk

When I go hiking, I like to take my time, enjoy the nature and take plenty of photos. I don’t rush on the paths, and I stop as many times as I feel is necessary. For me, it’s not about getting to the destination, it’s all about the journey there. Because of this, the walk from Woolacombe to Ilfracombe took the entire day. It is not a difficult trail, but it isn’t easy either. The total distance I walked was 8 miles, with an elevation of 400 meters.

There are no facilities on the hike, and nowhere to buy a bottle of water from, so make sure you bring plenty with you. Bring snacks as well, as you will need an energy boost on this long hike. Lee village has a pub, but it was closed for the afternoon when we reached it.

The terrain is very rugged, with plenty of rocks and slippery areas. You will need to wear a pair of good hiking shoes that have a good grip. Hiking poles are useful, but not necessary.

I walked from Woolacombe to Ilfracombe with a friend, and none of us prepared in any way beforehand.

Woolacombe Beach to Barricane Beach

The first part of this hike is very easy. We started from Woolacombe Beach and walked along the coast until we reached Barricane and Combesgate beaches. The scenery moves dramatically from the finest sand to rugged cliffs. Both Barricane and Combesgate are tiny beaches inside small bays between the cliffs. They are accessible by narrow, steep stairs. We didn’t go down to the beach, just continued along the trail, past Watersmeet Hotel.

Barricane Beach to Morte Point

From Watersmeet Hotel you have two options: either follow the South West Coast Path over the hill, or continue along the trail to Grunta Beach. We decided on the first option. The path uphill is quite steep, but not very long. The views over Woolacombe beach from the top are breathtaking. 

The next part of the trail is quite flat and easy to follow. On the versants of the hills, there are many sheep grazing. Along the path there are meadows of white and pink wildflowers. As we approached Morte Point, we noticed that the gusts of wind became more and more intense. The trail also disappeared, leaving the marbled rocks to lead the way around the corner. Here and there, pink flowers were growing amongst the roughest cracks in the rocks. In the distance, we noticed the Morte Stone, which is believed to have sunken quite a few ships during the Norman times, when it used to be known as the “Death Stone”.

Morte Point to Rockham Beach

After we left Morte Point behind, we met a couple coming from the opposite direction, who told us that there were seals resting on the rocks nearby. By the time we reached them, they were taking a dip in the sea. It was quite fascinating to watch them dive underwater, then resurface just meters away.

This section of the trail is fairly easy and pretty spectacular. It was one of my favourite parts of the entire walk from Woolacombe to Ilfracombe. The scenery is so dramatic, and we were walking right on the top. Rockham beach is gorgeous and wild, and I doubt you can actually get down to it, which makes it even more special. The solid rock wall descends sharply into the sea, where the water and wind have shaped the stones into intricate structures. Just above the beach is a bench which overlooks it, where you can rest and just take in the scenery.

At low tide, you can see the remains of the SS Collier which sank here in 1914.

Rockham Beach to Bull Point Lighthouse

From Rockham Beach, the path continues inland, away from the rocks. It’s a steep climb up, with plenty of stairs. Bull Point is another deadly part of the coast of North Devon. Over time, hundreds of vessels perished on the rocks beneath the Bull Point. As a result of this, in 1879 the Bull Point Lighthouse was built.

You can’t enter the lighthouse premises but you can admire it from close proximity, as the trail passes just by its concrete fence.

Bull Point Lighthouse to Lee Beach

The next part of the trail is quite difficult, rising steeply up, then down the cliffs. Halfway through, there is a small bay called “Bennet’s Mouth” where you can go rock-pooling for starfish, sea anemones, and limpets. Continuing along, you will come across one of the steepest parts of the path. I kept a steady rhythm, concentrating on the beautiful landscape and the bluebells growing on each side of the trail. There is more climbing up steep stairs to do, before finally starting the descent towards Lee Beach. 

Lee Beach to Ilfracombe 

For me, this was the hardest part of the hike from Woolacombe to Ilfracombe. From Lee beach, the path continues steadily uphill on a paved narrow road, shared with traffic. It’s a good mile of climbing, around 400 meters, without any places to stop and rest. At the top of the hill, once the trail gets back on the grass, crossing a field, there is a sign saying “Flat Point”. It doesn’t last long though. The field is home to cows, so if you are hiking with a dog, make sure it’s on a lead. The cows were grazing in the middle of the path, but they moved away as we approached.

After another half a mile or so, we could finally see the rooftops of Ilfracombe. Another two hills and we reached the town. We stopped at the first pub to have well-deserved fish and chips, as well as a refreshing pint of lager.

About Ilfracombe

Ilfracombe is one of the most popular seaside towns in Devon. It is an old fishing village that became very popular as a seaside destination back in Victorian times, when the Tunnel beaches were built. It has beautiful, brightly coloured houses and a medieval harbour which is completely dry at low tide.

Ilfracombe is very picturesque, with many independent shops and plenty of fish restaurants. 

Getting Back to Woolacombe from Ilfracombe

By the time I ate, relaxed for a bit and explored Ilfracombe, the last bus to Woolacombe had long gone. It’s good to remember that the last bus is at 5:38 pm, leaving from the station in front of the Methodist Church in Ilfracombe. It’s bus number 31.

We decided that the best way to get back to our holiday park in Woolacombe was to get a taxi. Even though it was the middle of May, it was hard to get a taxi. Most phone numbers we called weren’t answered, and one of them took an hour. In the end, we managed to find a taxi, which we waited around 20 minutes for. The trip from Ilfracombe to Woolacombe was £16.

It’s good to keep in mind that there are limited options for returning to Woolacombe after 6 pm. 

Conclusion

The Woolacombe to Ilfracombe hike is long but extremely rewarding when it comes to scenery. It is not a demanding hike, but you do need to be in good physical condition to complete it. This was without a doubt my favourite hike in North Devon. I would love to do it again next time I travel to the area – I know I will be returning. North Devon is so beautiful!

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