The Best Things to Do in Essaouira: A Moroccan Coastal Escape

I have literally fallen in love with the chilled vibe of Essaouira from the first steps into the Medina. Dragging my suitcase behind me, from the bus drop off to my hotel, I could feel the gentle breeze and the smell of the sea. The city’s alleyways were much larger and airier than the medina of Marrakech, with less people and a much more local feel. In this article I will tell you about all the best things to do in Essaouira, all of which I have experienced myself. We will cover the must-sees as well as the more hidden places that you should explore, to learn more about the heritage of this beautiful city.

Essaouira was the place I loved the most in Morocco. I fell for its incredible sunrise and sunsets, the chilled atmosphere, the amazing food, and the peacefulness of the Medina. I thought Essaouira was the perfect balance of the best things Morocco has to offer to its tourists.

About Essaouira

Essaouira is different from the rest of Morocco. You will recognise a certain Mediterranean feel here. The city of Essaouira was founded in the 18th century by Sultan Mohammed III and was initially named Mogador. Prior to this, the area has been home to various civilizations including the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans. During the 16th century the Portuguese established a trading post in the city which was later taken over by the Saadian dynasty of Morocco.

Under Sultan Mohammed III, Essaouira was transformed into a fortified port city, designed to serve as a gateway for trade between Europe, Africa and the Americas. The city’s strategic location made it an important hub for trade in goods such as ivory, gold and spices as well as slaves.

Throughout its history, Essaouira has been a melting pot of cultures, attracting people from all over the world. The city’s architecture and design reflect this diversity, with elements of Berber, Arabian and European styles.

The Best Things to do in Essaouira

Walk Along the Ramparts

If you think that Essaouira has a European look, you are not wrong. The ramparts and the fortress protecting the city were built by a French architect in the 1760s, inspired by the fortifications of the French town of St Malo.

You can walk on the wall that connects two defence bastions. Skala de Ville is the one still standing, which you can visit free of charge. On the top of the rampart there are 19 bronze cannons, pointing towards the sea through gaps in the wall. Below, the waves crash directly onto the brick walls.

When you step inside the bastion you feel how windy the Windy City actually is. The breeze is so strong that I could barely hold the phone in my phone to take a photo. The view beyond the walls is opening up to massive stones inside the sea, and the wild beach in the North of the city.

Get Lost In the Medina

Or not, as the Medina of Essaouira is nothing like the one in Fez, where you will get lost without a guide for sure. The Medina in Essaouira is quite small but also very beautiful, with plenty of alleys filled with shops, Berber pharmacies, art galleries, eateries and many, many cats.  

Even if it’s very different, the Medina of Essaouira reminded me a little bit of Tangier because of its Mediterranean feel and the whitewashed houses decorated with blue paint.  

If you want to learn more about this beautiful city you may consider booking a city tour, by clicking here.

Go for a Walk Along the Beach

The beach in Essaouira is two kilometres long, sandy and offers plenty of things to do. A promenade runs parallel with the beach if you prefer to walk on pavement. There are many restaurants and terraces dotted along the way, as well as plenty of popcorn and cake sellers.

On calm days, when the wind is not blowing too much, you can hire a beach chair and an umbrella from one of the beach bars and enjoy a relaxing sunbathing session. The beach is divided into several sections: the sunbathing area, ball games, where you will often see youngsters playing football barefoot, a surfing area, and camel and horse rides towards the end. You can also take a dip in the ocean if you feel brave enough, but keep in mind that the temperature of the water is quite cold, even during the summer months.

Some may say that one of the best things to do in Essaouira is go on a quad bike ride on the beach, but I haven’t tried it so I can’t really comment on it. It is advisable to book an excursion in advance, should this be something you would like to do. 

Befriend a Camel on the Beach

I was surprised how camels are just left on their own, at the far end of the Essaouira beach. Whilst their owners lead some of the camels on a walk along the seafront, for tourists, they just leave the rest of them unattended. This is how we befriended Mimoun, a pretty lady whose owner was nowhere to be seen.

I actually did a bit of research about riding camels in Morocco, because I was unsure if it’s an ethical experience or not. I am against animal cruelty and I found many different opinions about riding camels in Morocco. After speaking with a few locals, including people who own camels in Morocco, I’ve learned that the situation differs based on where you are. In Merzouga, camel owners take a lot of care of their animals because they are their livelihood. If not for the tourists, they would have to send their camels to the abattoirs, as they couldn’t afford to keep them alive. Also, the camels in Merzouga had padded cushions that would protect their humps.  In Essaouira, it was a bit different. The camels had a large wooden frame on their back, that didn’t look comfortable at all. Whilst they still looked healthy, I’ve learned that the sea water is actually damaging for the bottom part of their legs.

At some point the owner of Mimoun returned with his other two camels, Chocolate and Caramel. We chatted with him for a while, and he allowed us to cuddle Mimoun, without asking us to pay him, or go for a ride. We decided against riding camels on the beach, and continued our stroll.  

Learn How to Surf

Essaouira is known as the windy city of Morocco. It’s pretty obvious that one of the best things to do in Essaouira is practice water sports. There are quite a few surfing schools along the beachfront of Essaouira from where you can book lessons or just hire equipment, if you already know how to surf.

I’ve recently learned how to surf, on a trip to Spain, and noticed that the waves were beginner friendly. This is because of Mogador Island, which breaks the swells and prevents them from reaching the beach area. The beach may not be exciting for an experienced surfer who is expecting huge waves, but it’s great for novices. There were also many children in the water, taking their first surf lessons.

The Southernmost point of Essaouira beach is a popular spot for kitesurfers, if you are into this water sport.  

You can click here to book a surf lesson in advance, and here to book a 2 hour kitesurfing lesson.

Visit the Working Fishing Harbour

One of the most exciting things to do in Essaouira is to get immersed into the local way of life. Such as going to the harbour early in the morning and watching the boats returning from sea with their catch of the day.

A group of men are waiting for each boat, with trays and buckets of ice. The fish is put in buckets on the boats and then passed up to the men up on the pavement. They empty the buckets on ice, and throw it back down to the fishermen. It’s like a mechanical chain, up and down, up and down. On the edge, more workmen are there, ready for  trays to be loaded. They cover the fish with more ice, and load it in a refrigerated van. The fish is either taken to the market, or directly to the auction house adjacent to the harbour, where it will be exported the same day.

Alongside, a few women are picking up the fish that falls off the trays and putting it in their own buckets. I assume they will take it to another market, inside the Medina, to be sold. Above, seagulls are flying low, attempting to dive and grab a fish straight from the boat.

The fish market is not just a great place to learn about the city of Essaouira and its historical heritage as well as being a fantastic place to eat the fish. You can buy any fish or seafood you want from one of the sellers and take it to the grilling stations in the corner of the market to get it cooked. You even get salad and bread with it, once it’s ready.

Eat Fish

Another great thing to do in Essaouira is indulge in the abundance of fish and seafood dishes. The restaurants in Essaouira serve dishes from classic fish tagines and chermoula stuffed sardines to lobster, oysters or grilled fish in delicate seafood sauces.

I loved digging into a plate of sardines stuffed with the fresh herbs mix at the tiniest backstreet restaurants with only four tables, on a narrow side alley in Medina. I also loved the al fresco grilled sole which I had at a beach café with a sea view.

Wake Up for the Sunrise

Essaouira offered without a doubt the most spectacular sunrise I  witnessed during my entire trip around Morocco. The sky looked like it was set on fire, with deep colours reflecting in the sea below. It looked unreal!

The only souls on the beach at that time of the morning were the seagulls, stuffed with fresh fish from the early morning boats arriving in the harbour. Many flocks of seagulls were resting on the sand. From time to time, the entire group flew away, like dots on the red sky, only to return back on the sand.

Shop til You Drop in the Souks

One of the things I really liked about Essaouira is that the sellers are not as aggressive as they are in Marrakech. Shopping here was a breeze, with straightforward prices and little need for negotiation. Many shops had the prices displayed in the baskets outside their shops, which I thought were very fair.

I wished I’d had bigger luggage as I would have bought all those wonderful wooden kitchen utensils, the hand painted ceramic bowls and plates not to mention the vibrant Berber carpets or the silver jewellery. Due to limited space, I compromised and took a gorgeous bowl, hand carved with a delicate pattern and painted in lively blues and yellows.

I also bought a bottle of pure Argan oil from a small cooperative, which I’ve been using for my hair for the past month.

Find a Perfect Art Piece for Your Home

Essaouira is home to a thriving arts and crafts scene, with many local artisans producing traditional items such as pottery, textiles, and wood carvings. There are so many talented artists who come here to get inspired by the never ending blues of the city.

I have seen so many wonderful canvases, and I promised myself that when I will buy my own home, I will return here to buy art to decorate the walls with. 

Photograph All the Cats

Being a massive Cat lover, I simply have to include the cats in this guide on the best things to do in Essaouira. They are part of the city and are quite laid back, you’ll find them sleeping in the most unusual places. Most of the cats in Essaouira are friendly and love a cuddle. They also give life to photos, and make wonderful subjects in your memories from this city.

I couldn’t resist taking photos of the cats: in baskets, on top of shoes, in ceramic bowls, on chairs, and even in art galleries. Who would think the cat is not part of the exhibition?

Watch a Gnawa Music Performance

Gnawa music is a genre that originated from the Gnawa ethnic group which is part of Morocco’s identity. The Gnawa were brought to Morocco as slaves, in the 11^th century, from countries in Sub Saharan Africa. Gnawa music is not just melody, but an entire performance that is similar to Spanish flamenco. It includes melody, lyrics with religious content meant to evoke spiritual ancestors, and the sinter (a three-stringed bass like instrument) and krakeb (iron castanets) – traditional musical instruments.

The performers are wearing colourful costumes and spin a tassel on their hats when they play the instruments.

Indulge in the Street Sweets

There are so many dessert sellers on the streets of Essaouira. Firstly, the city is known as a great place to buy crepes. There are many stalls and small shops selling crepes made on the spot, filled with delicious combinations of Nutella and banana, sugar and lemon, amlou, or cheese and ham – for a savoury option.

The city is also home to many traditional Moroccan sweet sellers, who make an array of different treats. From the classic Kaab el Ghazal to cocoa and nuts balls and baklava.

On the beach and in the main square of Essaouira you will notice men walking around with trays of homemade cakes. They are selling them for a small fee, to both locals and tourists who are in need of a sweet energy boost.  

Visit a Silver Jeweller

Just outside the Medina of Essaouira you will find the silverware workshops, where you can see how the jewellery is made and also buy a special piece designed just for you. I visited a small cooperative in the Centre de la Bijouterie Artisanale Maalem Ali, where most of the craftsmen are deaf.

Firstly, they demonstrated how they work the silver and how you can tell if a piece of jewellery is made from real silver or not. Then, I was free to browse around their shop, where they displayed so many different rings, necklaces, bracelets, as well as bigger and bolder decoration pieces. The prices are quite reasonable, and one of the girls in my group actually bought a pretty, delicate necklace.

If you stay in Essaouira for longer, they can make personalised pieces as well, which can make great reminders of the great time you’ve had in Essaouira.

Relax at the Hammam

A visit to the hammam is a must, no matter which city you are visiting in Morocco. The hammam is a very relaxing experience after which your skin will feel as soft as a baby’s. A session in the hammam usually lasts for one and a half hours and includes a traditional scrub with black olive soap, relaxation in a wet room and a mint tea. Some packages also include an extra relaxation massage with argan oil, to moisturise the skin and loosen up those stiff muscles.

Find a Bar With a View For the Sunset

After a full day in Essaouira, relax at one of the rooftop terraces and restaurants in town. There are several restaurants that have high rooftops from where you can see the sunset over the ramparts and the ocean. If you catch windy days, as I did, the spectacle will be even better.

While the sun was hiding below the horizon line, the waves were getting higher and higher, crashing powerfully on the rocks below, releasing steam into air. The combination of all these elements contribute to an unforgettable sunset.

A great restaurant to watch the sunset from is Restaurant Il Mare – however, I do not recommend eating here because it is extremely overpriced, and the food is not the best. But for a drink, it is a good choice. If you are looking for a bar that also offers live music and a DJ, check our Taros. Their rooftop has different levels and they serve alcohol.   

Learn More About Argan Oil and Taste Amlou

Argan oil is one of the most sought after cosmetic products. For centuries Argan oil has been used to moisturise the skin, encourage hair growth, harden nails, and reduce inflammation. Argan oil contains natural antioxidants, vitamin A, C, and E, and omega6 fatty acids. The oil has a light texture and a nice aroma, like toasted nuts.

The area in which the Argan trees grow is around Essaouira, so this is where most of the Argan Oil cooperatives (mostly run by women) are. Making Argan oil is a lengthy and difficult process which is reflected in its price. Firstly, the peel and the pulp of the Argan seed are removed, and then the nut inside, which holds the oil, is cracked open. The kernels are then grinded through a rudimentary stone machine that squeezes out the liquid, producing pure, unfiltered Argan oil.

You don’t have to visit one of the cooperatives along the way to Essaouira, especially if you travel here by public transport as there are a few shops in Essaouira where you can see this process. There are also plenty of shops that make amlou on the premises, which you can taste and buy.

Amlou is Morocco’s answer to peanut butter – but much better. It is made from mixing culinary Argan oil with honey and crushed almonds. It has a runny texture and tastes like heaven. Almou is usually served for breakfast, alongside pancakes and msemen, a squared shaped flaky pastry with a soft interior and a crispy exterior with a delicious buttery taste.  

Find the Game of Thrones Filming Locations

Essaouira is one of the places where the famous Game of Thrones series was filmed. I know that a few years ago, when the series was breaking all records, its fans were travelling from country to country to pose in the same locations as Daenerys Targaryen or Arya Stark. I still remember the fantastic Game of Thrones tour I did in Northern Ireland, finding all the accessible filming locations.  

If you are a fan of the series you will know that some of season 3 was filmed here. Don’t miss the Ramparts which portrays Astapor, or the juice stalls before the port with a view over Borj el Barmil Tower, where Daenerys is deciding on the value of her new army.  

Do Not Stop For the Climbing Goats

One of the touristic attractions on the road between Marrakech and Essaouira and the trees climbing goats. Whilst goats do naturally climb trees when they run out of food on the ground, these places are exploiting this natural behaviour by forcing the animals to stay up there for the entire day. Travelling on this road early in the morning, I have seen the owners dragging the goats by their legs, and positioning them on wooden platforms, in the trees. It is natural to see one goat up a tree, not 20. This is animal cruelty! The way it works is that buses full of tourists stop at these places to see the goats. The owners are charging everyone for taking photos.

Our guide told us about it and asked if we wanted to stop – we said no. I snapped a photo through the window, to see how unnatural this is, and how the goats are left up there for the entire day, in the scorching sunshine so that their owner can make money. Please do the right thing, and don’t stop to take photos!

Where to Stay in Essaouira:

Budget: Riad Nakhla

Riad Nakhla is a modest riad with basic rooms inside the Medina. It’s about a 5 minute walk from the main square to the harbour in Essaouira. It has a rooftop terrace where breakfast is served every day. The staff were very friendly and accommodating with our requests.

You can click here to see more reviews on Tripadvisor, or here to check the latest rates on Booking.

Mid Range: Riad Dar L’Oussia

Riad Dar L’Oussia is located in the heart of the Medina and has panoramic views of the beach and the sea from the rooftop terrace. The rooms are decorated in a combination of Moroccan style with a twist.

You can click here to see more reviews on Tripadvisor, or here to check the latest rates on Booking.

Luxury: Riad Dar Maya

Riad Dar Maya is a dream. The rooms have luxurious elegant décor, are very spacious and some even have a fireplace. The riad offers breakfast on the rooftop terrace, has its inhouse hammam as well as a spa centre and a library.

You can click here to see more reviews on Tripadvisor, or here to check the latest rates on Booking.

For more articles about Morocco check out:

• Unique things to do in Marrakech
• The best things to do in Chefchaouen
• What to drink in Morocco
• What to eat in Morocco
• 10 days in Morocco itinerary

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