Not only is Delhi the political capital of India, it is the foodie capital of India. Delhiites love to eat and to feed others – there is a real food culture here. I’ve been eating my way through the city for several years, these are my favourite unique places to eat in Delhi.
Old Delhi Street Food
Old Delhi is one of the most unique places to eat in the city and a true cultural experience. It is widely considered as ground zero for street food. I recommend coming here after you are somewhat acclimated to Delhi. Although Old Delhi is the most historic part of the city, it’s also congested, noisy and basically bonkers. It’s not the best place to come to on day 1.
It was founded in 1648 by the Mughal ruler Shah Jahan (who built the Taj Mahal). The area is full of historic sites from that time. Old havelis, temples, mosques, even the markets themselves were established in the mid 1600s. Much of the street food, especially around Jama Masjid, reflects the Mughal history.
There are two main areas in Old Delhi for street food: Chandni Chowk and Chawri Bazaar. Chandni Chowk is the main street that runs between the Red Fort and Fatehpuri Masjid and includes the lanes and surrounding area. It is closed to motorized traffic during the day, so this is a good place to start.
Chawri Bazaar is the market area adjacent to Chandni Chowk, closer to Jama Masjid. It’s very congested and hectic, but has more street food options.
My favourite spots in Old Delhi for street food, and what to get are:
- Kanwarji Raj Kumar (chole bhature) – Chandni Chowk
- Natraj Dahi Bhalla Corner (dahi bhalla) – Chandni Chowk
- Hira Lal Chaat Corner (fruit chaat) – Chawri Bazaar
- Jain Coffee House (fruit sandwiches) – Chawri Bazaar
- Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wala (kulfi frozen in whole fruits) – Chawri Bazaar
- Shyam Sweets (mung halwa and gajar halwa) – Chawri Bazaar
Both Chandni Chowk and Chawri Bazaar markets are closed on Sunday – many food vendors will not be open.
Street Food in Amar Colony Market
If the chaos of Old Delhi is too much, this is a fantastic alternative. Actually, Amar Colony Market is my favourite market for street food. Thanks to the large number of immigrants and refugees in the area, the street stalls are very diverse. It’s a compact area compared to Old Delhi and easy to food hop.
Besides street food, this market is well known for its shops selling women’s Indian suits. If you have a special event to attend, this is a great place to shop for an outfit.
My favourite food stands in Amar Colony Market, and what to get are:
- Hunger Strike – chicken tandoori momos
- Tunday Kababi – mutton galouti kabab
- Aunty Momo – veg dry laphing
- 34, Chowinghee Lane – kathi rolls
- Famous Rabri Faluda – rabri faluda (this a simple cart outside the Lenskart shop)
While you’re in Amar Colony Market, stop by the famous Standard Namkeen shop. Namkeen are savoury dry snacks often served during the afternoon chai break. Standard Namkeen has a huge assortment and they make great gifts for any foodies back home.
The best time to go for street food is after 1:00 pm when all the stands are open. Amar Colony Market is closed on Monday and some stands may not be open.
Eat Like a Local at a Dhaba
Dhabas are casual, roadside eateries very popular across India. This is the opposite of a 5 star dining experience – a dhaba is a simple restaurant where you won’t see a lot of tourists, but the food is usually excellent. And dhabas are super cheap.
Most dhabas have open kitchens and are a hive of activity – it’s a fun and very culturally authentic experience to eat in a dhaba. My favourite Delhi dhabas are:
Kake da Hotel (Connaught Place)
This is one of the oldest and most famous dhabas in Delhi. If you go in the evening, be prepared to wait outside for a table – it is very popular with locals. It’s crowded, fun and the food is top notch, although it can be a little spicy for some palates. Eating here is a very unique Delhi food experience.
Kake de Hatti (Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi)
I love this casual eatery in Chandni Chowk. This is a really good option if you don’t want to eat street food. It’s located at the far end, near Khari Baoli (the famous spice market) and Fatehpuri Masjid. Make sure you get the sarson ki saag and makki ki roti (mustard greens and corn roti) if you are there in winter – it’s a healthy, seasonal dish and Kake di Hatte makes one of the best in the whole city.
Dhaniya da Dhaba (Amar Colony)
This neighbourhood dhaba is very popular with local families. Their rotis are baked onsite in a tandoori oven and food refills are free. Everything is good, but may be a little spicy for some. Don’t hesitate to share a table with another diner if the dhaba is busy.
Just down the street is one of Delhi’s hidden gems – the Amar Colony Furniture Market. It’s tucked away down a lane so you may have to ask for directions, but it’s a treasure trove of restored and repurposed furniture and vintage home items.
Rajinder da Dhaba (Safdarjung, South Delhi)
This could be Delhi’s most iconic dhaba. It started as a small stand years ago, and has expanded to several restaurants that take up at least half the market block. Every night the parking lot is full of locals eating outside with many using their motorcycle seats as counters.
Go after 4 pm and order chicken curry and naan from the express take out counter. Eat it in the parking lot like a local. If that is too much of a local experience, eat in the main restaurant, downstairs. Prices are higher upstairs and in the Rajinder da Dhaba RDX restaurant.
Eat at a State Bhawan
Government workers and locals love eating at state run canteens. Most states in India have a bhawan (government building) in Delhi and many of these have eateries open to the public. Most offer unlimited thali trays (a mixed tray with dhal, local vegetable dishes, rice and breads) which are delicious and great value.
The best known of the these is Andhra Pradesh Bhawan but other notable ones include Gujurat Bhawan, Tamilnadu House and Delhi Karnataka Sangha. Bhawans are unique places to eat in Delhi – not many tourists know about them.
Most bhawans serve 3 meals a day and are closed in between meal times. Typical hours (but these vary) are breakfast: 8-10:00 am, lunch: 12:30-3:00 pm and dinner: 7:30-10:00 pm.
Have Langar at a Gurudwara
Langar is the free, vegetarian meal served at Sikh temples. In fact, the most prominent gurudwara in Delhi, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, serves 40,000 meals daily and that number can more than double on festival and holy days.
Having langar at a gurudwara is a special, community experience and I highly recommend you try it. All are welcome, regardless of sex, age, religion or colour. Everyone sits on the floor in rows while volunteers walk down the aisles filling trays with rice, dhal, veg and chapatis. You can eat as much as you want but should finish everything on your tray because the food is considered blessed.
Feel free to ask a volunteer to show you the huge kitchen where the food is prepared. It’s very impressive, serviced entirely by volunteers, and financed by donations.
Common etiquette for having langar is to visit the prayer hall first (everyone is welcome) and eat after. Shoes must be removed to enter the prayer and langar halls, and heads must be covered. Larger gurudwaras like Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib in Chandni Chowk and Gurudwara Bangla Sahib in central Delhi have visitors centres, but I just leave my shoes with everyone else and bring a scarf for my head. There’s always bins with bandanas to borrow if you need one.
Try International Foods at one of the Cultural Centres
Delhi has many cultural centres and embassies with restaurants. Almost all require diplomatic ID or membership, but there are a couple open to the general public. Most visitors don’t know about the cultural centres – they are unique places to eat in Delhi.
Korean Culture Centre
The Korean Culture Centre has a fabulous restaurant, Dalgrak. They serve authentic Korean dishes in a bright, cheerful setting. Open 9:00 am to 9:00 pm daily, except Sunday when it is closed.
British Council Building
The British Council Building has a fantastic cafe, Caara Cafe. Food and coffee are excellent (it’s like being transported to Europe) and it’s a super quiet oasis in the middle of crazy Delhi. Getting through security is a bit of hassle (make sure you have government issued ID, like a passport) but it’s worth it.
They’re open daily 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.
India Habitat Centre
Delhi’s premier cultural centre is membership based, but some things are open to the public, like the retro diner Habitat Hub. It’s open early for breakfast and serves international cuisine.
India Habitat Centre is very active in promoting local artists – the have a wonderful outdoor space with public art and a couple of galleries everyone can access. Take a look around while you’re there.
Open 8:00 am to 10:00 pm daily.
Dine in a Former Prince’s Palace at Bikaner House
This is the former residence of the Maharaja of the princely state of Bikaner. It was built by the British Raj in 1929 as one of the palaces in Prince’s Park, the coveted area around India Gate. In 2015 it was restored by the Archeological Survey of India and opened to the public as a cultural centre.
How many people can say they have eaten in a prince’s palace? It’s definitely a unique place to eat in Delhi. There are 4 restaurants in Bikaner House:
- Haldiram’s (casual cafeteria style, Indian food)
- Diggin Cafe (lovely cafe, Italian and international food with a wonderful outdoor terrace)
- L’Opera (one of the best bakeries in Delhi, light food and pastry)
- Chor Bizarre (beautiful heritage style restaurant specializing in Indian cuisine)
Bikaner House has several galleries showcasing Indian art, and is free. Take a look around while you are there – the grounds and buildings are lovely.
Eat Food from all Over India at Delhi’s Best Outdoor Food Court, Dilli Haat INA
Dilli Haat INA is an outdoor market specializing in textiles and cultural products from across India. It’s a relaxed, pedestrian only zone.
Dilli Haat has food stands from many different states of India in its food court. No wonder this market is so popular with tourists and locals alike. Sample dosa from Tamil Nadu, momos from Sikkim, vada pav from Maharashtra or a Rajasthani thali, all within a few metres of each other.
Dilli Haat INA is open 10:30 am to 10:30 pm daily, admission is INR 100.
Enjoy 5 Star Indian Cuisine in India’s Most Acclaimed Restaurants
Thanks to its status as the national capital, Delhi has some truly exceptional Indian restaurants. These restaurants are widely accepted as some of the best in South East Asia:
- Orient Express (resembles the luxury train) – Taj Palace Hotel
- The Spice Route (as famous for its artistic decor as the food) – The Imperial Hotel
- Bukhara (Delhi’s most acclaimed restaurant has hosted international and local celebrities – it’s recognized as one of the 50 best restaurants in the world) – ITC Maurya Hotel
- Indian Accent (contemporary Indian food by chef Manish Mehrota, recognized as one of the top chef’s in Asia) – The Lodhi Hotel
Eat Endless Dim Sum at the Shangri-la Eros Hotel
Every day from 12:00 pm to 3:30 pm, the Shang Palace restaurant in the Shangri-la Eros Hotel hosts their Shangtastic Dimsum Lunch, an you can eat multi course extravaganza. It’s not cheap, but not expensive for a 5 star hotel at just under INR 3000 including taxes and tip. And trust me, one thing the Shangri-la Eros Hotel does extremely well is food.
This is not for the light eater. Lunch is an endless array of freshly cooked dim sum, Asian salads, clay pot dishes, dessert and tea. As a dim sum lover, this is one of my favourite places to eat in Delhi, the food is delicious.
Step Back in Time at Indian Coffee House
This old school coffee shop is a Delhi institution. Located very centrally in Connaught Place, it was once the favoured hangout of politicians, and leftist intellectuals. In fact, during Indira Gandhi’s Emergency (when civil liberties were suspended for 21 months in the 1970s) it was shut down by the government as a hotbed of civil unrest supporters.
Indian Coffee House is basically suspended in time, with the same decor, lackluster tables and chairs, and uniformed waiters as when it opened in 1957 (well maybe not the same waiters, but the same uniform).
Food is basic – dosas, omelettes, coffee and tea, but super cheap and the place is full of history and atmosphere. It’s on the second floor of the Mohan Singh Place building, Connaught Place. Open 9:00 am to 9:00 pm daily.
Drink Chai from the Local Chai Wala
Just walk down any Delhi street in the morning and you will see vendors with big metal pots of bubbling milk tea and a group of locals hanging around enjoying their chai.
Street chai is a delicious sweet tea infused with spices. Spice blends change with the seasons – in winter chai walas use more ginger, in summer they use more cardamom. It’s safe to drink since it’s vigorously boiled, but take it in a paper cup as opposed to clay (some vendors have been known to re-use the single use clay cups).
Street chai is INR 10 across the board, unless you get the fancy tandoori style method (they do this in Sarojini Nagar Market).
Buy Fresh Mangoes from the Local Market
The one saving grace of a Delhi summer is mango season (yes, it is referred to as a season). Mango season starts in late April (these are the sour ones, they get sweeter as the season progresses) and ends in August.
Mangos are not called the king of fruit for no reason. Locals look forward to mango season every year, and everyone has their favourite variety. Sold by the kilo at almost all neighbourhood vegetable markets and road side fruit stands, they are outstanding when fresh.
You’ll also find fresh lychees in the fruit markets at this time – they’re amazing too.
Conclusion
Delhi truly is a foodie paradise. The variety of cuisine and number of unique places to eat make this city a true destination for epicureans. No matter what your budget, you can eat very well in this city. Delhi has something for everyone.
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