Visiting Lyon in winter is pretty cool (no pun intended), especially if you’re looking for cozy holiday vibes and a local French crowd. The city is known for the Festival of Lights in the winter and its amazing food scene, so think warm, hearty French dishes, cafe hopping, and lots of Beaujoulais wine. The famous Fête des Lumières (Festival of Lights) is in December, which is pretty famous in France, and the city lights up with incredible art installations and projections, setting the mood for a weekend leading into the Christmas holidays.
I’ve included a few things to do in Lyon in the winter, but here are my top 3 recommendations:
- See the famous Festival of Lights
- Explore Vieux Lyon (Old Town)
- Eat at a traditional Lyonnaise bouchon
Weather-wise, it can get cold in Lyon, so definitely pack warm clothes and maybe a good pair of walking boots to explore comfortably. The vibe is less touristy in winter, so you get a more authentic feel of the city, which is why a few local friends of mine keep inviting me to come around the holidays. I’ve been to Lyon for a few weeks in September as part of a giant south of France and Provence trip, and the city was packed with tourists – not a great experience in my opinion. In winter, it’s so much better crowds-wise.
7 Things To Do In Lyon in Winter
Here are a few things I recommend putting on your to-do list when visiting Lyon in the winter months, so between November to March. To treat yourself, book a 5 stars hotel in Lyon to return to in the evening, and warm up with the French hospitality, after a day spent in the cold.
See The Festival of Lights (December)
Fête des Lumières is a world-renowned festival that showcases spectacular light installations by artists from all over, and usually lasts for four nights, around December 8. Think of the entire city as a canvas, with buildings, parks, and streets illuminated with creative, often interactive, light art. It’s not just about the lights, though. There are concerts, performances, and a pretty ‘lit’ nightlife scene during the festival.
The festival has a unique history I thought was cute. Back in the 1850s, the people of Lyon wanted to celebrate the inauguration of a statue of the Virgin Mary at the Chapel on Fourvière Hill, planned for September 8. However, bad weather postponed it to December 8. On that night, the city’s residents spontaneously placed candles on their windowsills and balconies to light up the city, creating a magical effect. This act of solidarity and celebration gave birth to the festival.
What began as a religious tradition gradually evolved into a big city-wide festival. Over the years, it’s become less about the religious aspect and more about art, culture, and community.
A few tips from my friend in Lyon who has been a couple of times:
- Book hotels early, the city gets pretty packed for the festival weekend.
- Check out the festival program beforehand to prioritize what you want to see.
- It’s popular, so expect tons of people and crowded streets (especially in Vieux Lyon)
- December in Lyon is cold, so bundle up when you’re out and about experiencing the festival.
Shop at the Christmas Market in Place Carnot
Like every other Christmas Market in Europe, think 100+ little wooden huts setting up shop, selling everything from mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, globes, artisanal goodies, cheeses, clothes, and jewerly. While you’re in Place Carnot for the Christmas Markets, there are tons of little game areas to get into the spirit, including a giant Ferris wheel you can ride. From the top of the wheel, you can see a lot of the light installations and the skyline of Lyon – super pretty!
Explore Vieux Lyon
Vieux Lyon is the Old Town of Lyon, and it is adorable, like walking back in time. The streets are small, and there are tons of even smaller alleyways behind hidden doors in the street called traboules. This is the cutest thing because you have to find these little traboulle doors, push the ringer, and the door will open to a different walkway.
Some of my favorite spots in Vieux Lyon to visit are:
- Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste: This Gothic cathedral, famous for its astronomical clock and beautiful stained glass windows, is a centerpiece of Vieux Lyon.
- Musée Miniature et Cinéma: The museum showcases incredible miniature scenes and detailed movie props and sets. Puppets and miniatures is a big thing in Lyon.
- Rue Saint-Jean: The main street of Vieux Lyon, lined with shops, restaurants, and historic buildings. It’s lively and a great place to find a souvenir or grab a bite to eat.
- Fourvière Hill: Not exactly in Vieux Lyon, but just a short walk uphill to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, where you can enjoy pretty views of the city.
- Local Bouchons: Don’t miss out on dining in a traditional bouchon, where you can enjoy authentic Lyonnaise cuisine.
Feast at a Traditional Bouchon
This is one of those things you can’t leave Lyon without doing, and in the wintertime, the food is especially hearty! Bouchons are typically small and cozy, often with a rustic and homely interior, and they pride themselves on preserving and serving traditional Lyonnaise cuisine.
When I was visiting, I found out that Bouchon’s actually started out with women being the chefs and owners. What I think is cool is that you sit at a community table, and they will bring out the menu of the day, which will be a home-cooked French meal. They are usually serving hearty, homemade dishes that have been passed down through generations, which include local specialties like ‘quenelles’ (cream fish dumplings), ‘andouillette’ (a type of sausage), and ‘tarte à la praline’ (a sweet tart).
Go On A French Food Tour
One of my favorite things to do when I was in Lyon was take a food tour, which lasted from breakfast almost into dinner. Even though we were only focused on Vieux Lyon, there were so many little local places we were exposed to. Not only that, the owners are proud of their craft and will explain the process and the sourcing of all the ingredients. I learned so much about cheese, olives, meats, jellies, tea, and praline brioches.
If you would like to go on an organised food tour in Lyon, check out this fantastic four hours local tasting experience.
Date Night at a Michelin Restaurant
Lyon is famous for its impressive array of Michelin-starred restaurants, each offering a unique and exquisite culinary experience. I would recommend downloading the Michelin Guide App and seeing if you can score a reservation for a couple while you’re visiting. This is absolutely a special occasion, and the prices will be more expensive than a local bouchon, but I thought it was a nice juxtaposition to eat on both ends of the spectrum – fancy and local.
Here’s a list of some notable ones to check out:
- Regain: Known for its modern cuisine, more of a contemporary twist on traditional dishes.
- Le Garet: A great place to enjoy classic Lyonnaise cuisine.
- L’Argot: A great spot if you’re interested in meats and grills.
Taste the Beaujolais Wine
The Beaujolais region is located just north of Lyon, and produces a certain type of wine that is famous in Lyon, and pairs super well with the Lyonnaise food. To give a bit of education, Beaujolais is primarily made from the Gamay grape, which is relatively rare for fine wines. This grape variety gives Beaujolais its distinctive light and fruity flavor.
Beaujolais Nouveau is a big deal in Lyon and all around the world! These bottles are released on the third Thursday of November every year, just weeks after the grapes have been harvested. It’s a young wine meant to be consumed soon after bottling, and its release is celebrated with festivals, both in France and internationally. When I was traveling abroad in Japan one November, I got a chance to participate in a little bottle opening of Beaujolais in the mountains near Kyoto. My favorite is Beaujolais Cru.
Lyon Weather in the Winter
I’m considering winter in Lyon to be November to March, so here’s a breakdown of the weather month to month, what it will feel like, plus a few recommendations on what to wear.
November is pretty chilly, with winter just starting to set in. Rain is pretty common, so layer up and pack a good waterproof jacket if you’re visiting in November. Weather will average 6-10°C.
December gets properly cold, with average temps ranging from 1-6°C. It’s windy and brisk, so bust out the winter gear – warm coat, thermal layers, gloves, hat, scarf, all the good stuff. Waterproof boots are a good idea since there’s a chance of rain and snow.
January will be the coldest, saddest month in France, in my experience. Same temperatures as December in Lyon, but more chances of snow.
February is still cold, but you might start to feel the first hints of spring by the end of the month. You’ll still want a sturdy coat and waterproof boots, as it’s still going to be wet and windy. Average temperatures are warming up, and will be between 1-7°C.
March marks the beginning of spring, so you’ll start to feel a gradual warm-up with temperatures getting back into the 10s. The early part of the month can still be quite chilly, especially in the mornings and evenings, but there’s a noticeable increase in daylight hours.
FAQ: Winter in Lyon
Is December a good time to visit Lyon?
Lyon in December is probably the best month to visit in the winter because it’s the most festive with Christmas Markets and the Festival of Lights.
Is January a good time to visit Lyon?
To be honest, this is the longest, dreariest month in France, and Lyon by that measure. It’s cold as all hell, windy, and rainy. It is not my favorite month to be in France.
Is February a good time to visit Lyon?
While February is still one of the colder months in Lyon, it’s warming up. The best part of Lyon in February is enjoying traditional French comfort foods in Bouchons, stews, pastries, and all the goodies. So if you’re into food, and cafe life, February is a good time to come on over – just be warned, it’s cold and the sun sets early.
What is Lyon like at Christmas?
Magical. There are cute Christmas Markets and the French really go all out with the festive decorations in Vieux Lyon.
Final Thoughts: Is Lyon in Winter Worth It?
Lyon in the winter is what I would consider a low-key hidden gem because the tourists you will see are mostly French. It’s not as famous as Paris and Strasbourg for it’s Christmas markets, but it has the southern French charm, food scene, and light festival to really rock your socks off. My favorite things to do in Lyon in the winter are:
- See the famous Festival of Lights
- Shop at the Christmas markets in Place Carnot
- Explore Vieux Lyon (Old Town)
- Eat at a traditional Lyonnaise bouchon
- Date night at one of the Lyon Michelin restaurants
- Go on a food tour – food is the highlight in Lyon (other than silk)
- Try the famous Beaujolais wine
Beyond that, Lyon is a super safe city, maintains its French authenticity through the food and architectural prettiness, is clean, has tons of museums, music venues, and things to do in the winter, and is one of my favorite cities in France.
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