4 Days in Menorca: A Unique Off the Beaten Path Itinerary

I have always wanted to visit Menorca. There’s something about this island that I always found fascinating, especially that it somehow felt out of reach. Menorca is not as well connected to the UK as its neighbours, Mallorca and Ibiza. And maybe that’s a good thing, because, as I discovered last month when I finally got the chance to visit, Menorca feels so authentic, without the crowds of tourists which spoil the other Spanish Mediterranean islands.

Last month I was invited on a press trip to discover Menorca beyond the beaches. I spent 4 days in Menorca exploring every corner of the island and experiencing unique things such as visiting a working farm or learning the stories the geological structure of the soil tells.

One striking thing I noticed just as we left the airport in Menorca was how green the island is. As we drove towards our hotel, on both sides of the motorway I could see green fields and thick forests. On these green fields, the milk cows that produce milk for the famous Mahon cheese are grazing freely.

A massive thank you to Anne Marie who was the perfect guide for us in Menorca.

Where to Stay in Menorca

Menorca is a small island and, if you want to explore it thoroughly but don’t spend time on the road, it’s best to base yourself in the centre. We stayed at the wonderful boutique hotel S Estancia Suites in Es Mercadal. From here, it took us no more than 20 minutes by car to reach every corner of Menorca.

S Estancia Suites is a four-star small hotel, with only 19 rooms and a seasonal swimming pool. My room had a beautiful minimalist Mediterranean design, with bright colours and elegant décor elements. The room had an open plan, with a separate shower and toilet.

Breakfast was my favourite time of the day in the hotel. All the produce was locally sourced and prepared in the hotel. Every day there was a different selection of ensamaida, alongside local honey, tomato spread, Mahon cheese, and Menorcan olive oil. 

Day 1:

Brunch at the Hotel

We were welcomed with a wonderful traditional Menorcan brunch, at the hotel. As our flight departed London at 8 am, I was so looking forward to some food. The breakfast pastry and the coffee I had at the airport, after a long night travelling to Stansted, were wearing off. The setting of the brunch couldn’t be more beautiful, in a small lounge with dimmed lights and tasteful décor. The table was filled with locally made products such as Mahon cheese, tomato and garlic sauce, rustic bread, sobrasada, a selection of cold cuts, Menorcan “pizza” called coca, ensaimada, cherry cake, almond biscuits, and spiced shortbread. All was watered down with a glass of Xoriguer gin, produced on the island, in Mahon.

Jeep Tour In the North of the Island

The Jeep tour in the north of Menorca was one of the most interesting activities on this itinerary. It’s one of those off-the-beaten-path experiences where you get to connect with a local and really get to know the land. Our guide, Pere, wasn’t just very knowledgeable about the landscape and the areas we visited, but also a passionate archaeologist. We arrived in Menorca years ago, to do his military service, and never left.

We boarded the off-road vehicle in Fornells, at Menorca Discovery headquarters, and met Pere, who drove us and offered the most amazing off-the-beaten-path experience for the next few hours. I loved that whilst he wanted to show us the most hidden parts of the north, he also asked us what we would love to do, and where we would like to stop and explore more.

The tour went through private estates open only to Menorca Discovery, through rural paths, quarries, archaeological spots, and amazing secluded beaches. From time to time Pere would point at the sky and identify different birds. We stopped at a farm and even made friends with a horse and its foal.

We learned about the local fauna, flora, geology and history of the island. We concluded the tour at Cape Cavalleria Lighthouse, the northmost point of the island, from where the views were simply breathtaking. The extended version of the tour ends closer to sunset, so you get the chance to experience the wonderful reds and oranges taking over the sky.

Visit Fornells

Fornells is a sleepy small town in the north of Menorca. It has a pretty bay harbour with small boats anchored to the shore, adjacent to the strolling promenade. The sea of white houses was broken down by the few shops on the main street crossing the town, displaying colourful stands with postcards, dresses, or fish-shaped fridge magnets.

We arrived in Fornells late afternoon and strolled around for a bit before dinner. It felt like we were the only tourists there. In the main square of the town groups of locals were chatting together, whilst children were riding bikes or playing ball games.

Dinner at Can Tanu in Fornells

We ended our first day in Menorca with dinner at Can Tanu, a family-run restaurant in the centre of Fornells, where Pilar, the chef, cooked a feast for us. We started with small tostadas topped with freshly grated tomato sauce and cured sausage, followed by the most delicious local mussels. The Menorcan mussels are one of the main seafood products of Menorca, and they distinguish themselves through their large size and very meaty interior. They are big and juicy! On this occasion, they were cooked in a delicious red pepper, tomatoes and onions sauce which we couldn’t get enough of, even after the mussels were gone. We kept dipping pieces of bread in it, that’s how good it was.

The main event of the dinner was the Arroz caldoso with prawns, cuttlefish, mussels, clams and potatoes. It arrived at the table in a massive pot, from which the waiters plated it, in front of us. This rustic seafood stew was just what we needed after a long day. Each spoonful tasted just like a warm hug filled with flavour.

Day 2:

See How Mahon Cheese Is Made at Binillubet Farm

Our first stop on the second day in Menorca was the Binillubet Farm, to see how Mahon Cheese is made. This cheese has been a staple of the island for centuries, unique to the area, and has a Protected Designation of Origin status from the EU. It is a cow’s milk cheese with a buttery, slightly salty flavour. The texture can vary depending on how long it has been aged. When it’s young, it is soft and elastic. As it gets older, it becomes harder and crumblier.

The shape of the cheese is unique as well; it is square and has rounded edges. This comes from the traditional cloth wrapping used to shape it, as Laura and Lucia showed us. The colour of the cheese is interesting too. Young Mahon is pale yellow, but as it ages, it turns more of an orangey colour. This is because the rind is rubbed with butter, paprika, and oil as it matures.

Binillubet is not just a milk farm, but they also raise cows and horses for beauty contests, which happen every spring in Menorca. Their cows are just beautiful, and no wonder, as Pedro, the farmer, has won the 6th year in a row the best breeder award. In a field just across the driveway to the farm, I met Daria and Paula, two gorgeous animals – massive in size, but less than two years old. Daria won the second prize at this year’s competition.

As we arrived at the farm, the milk cows were preparing to go to the field, the roam free and eat the grass sprinkled with salt from the sea, by the wind. This is one of the unique ways that the Mahon cheese gets its saltiness. The cows were just giant – I don’t think I’ve ever seen such big animals. Next, we met Olaf and Aligot, two superb horses, before heading to the farm shop for a cheese and wine tasting.

Visit a working farm in Menorca is a unique experience and any tourist can do it, through the SaCooperativa of Menorca. This portal connects tourists who want to learn more about the produce of Menorca with producers all over the island. And it’s not just cheese, but also beekeepers, saffron farms, breweries or vineyards. The prices for guided visits are between 10-20 euros per person, and you can also have the option to buy products directly from the producer. You can click here for more details.

Alaior

After our visit to Binillubet Farm, we made our way to Alaior, one of the oldest towns in Menorca. Perched on a hill, Alaior’s skyline is dominated by the impressive Church of Santa Eulàlia, its baroque facade gleaming against the blue sky. 

We got dropped off close to the city centre and walked from there. Our first stop on the itinerary was Sa Lluna patio, an old Franciscan cloister which currently hosts a museum upstairs and a temporary exhibition in the basement.

The temporary exhibition was a glimpse into the building’s history. The first construction of the monastery started in 1629 and was completed 47 years later. Unfortunately, in 1676 the building collapsed, so a new one was built. The olfactive photography exhibition led the way to the building’s great cistern, which was excavated in 1734, and which still stands today. By pressing a button near the window into the cistern, the air filled with a delicate perfume of figs and sandalwood. Next to it, on the wall, a piece of paper explained that these fragrances were chosen because they represent Menorca, with its wind that sweeps the rocks and the soil, the wildflowers that cover the land, and the salty breeze of the sea. Among the photos, beautiful poems were also displayed on the walls.

The museum is on the second floor, and it is dedicated to the old crafts of the island, including shoemaking, woodwork, and farming. It reminded me a little bit of the Shoe Museum in Menorca, which I found so insightful. I never imagined before visiting the Balearic Islands that shoemaking was such a big industry here. In fact, Menorca has its own traditional type of sandal, which is called Avarcas.

You can find it at many shops around the island, including in Alaior, in its traditional form or in a more modern interpretation. Either way, it is said to be very comfortable and durable, and I’ve seen many of the locals wearing them.

After we strolled around the pretty narrow, winding alleys between whitewashed buildings with green shutters, we arrived at the Contemporary Art Museum, LOAC. This is a private art collection which is displayed for the public in a beautiful old building, overlooking a pretty square in Alaior. Among the artists whose works are displayed here are Antonio Saura, Joar Miro, Miquel Barcelo, Antoni Tapies, Antonio Lopez and Marina Abramovic.  

Lunch at Es Festuc in Alaior

Es Festuc was one of the culinary highlights of my trip to Menorca. This is a very small restaurant, with only a few tables, so if you want to dine here it’s recommended to book in advance. Laura, who is the head chef and owner of the restaurant, cooked a feast for us. The way she plays with flavour by fusing local ingredients with international cuisines is pretty amazing. For me, the most impressive dish of the lunch was the pulled pork bun topped with yoghurt, lime and beetroot. It was just divine. Each bite would take over my taste buds with the comfort of the slow-cooked pork, only for its heaviness to be cut off by the zingy yoghurt and to be brought back by the earthiness and crunch of the raw beetroot. It was such a simple dish with the perfect balance of flavours.

Second, on my favourite lunch dishes list at Es Festuc were the cuttlefish croquettes with squid ink aioli. I’ve never had croquettes so delicate: crispy on the outside but no need for a fork to cut through them, that’s how creamy the inside was. The taste was very intense, very fishy, and tamed by the garlicky aioli.

Dessert was a masterpiece on its own. Toasted ensaimada from the local baker, flattened and served with a lot of melted chocolate and vanilla ice cream. Simply divine!

The Talayotic Settlement of Torre d’en Galmes

After lunch, we headed to the Talayotic settlement of Torre d’en Galmés, the largest prehistoric site in the Balearic Islands. When the prehistoric people first arrived in Menorca, over 4,000 years ago, this was one of the first sites to be occupied and built on the island. It is still a mystery what role these buildings had, or how were they used by our ancestors. The Talayotic culture, unique to Mallorca and Menorca, flourished between 1000 BC and 123 BC. Torre d’en Galmés offers a fascinating glimpse into this prehistoric civilization. The site sprawls across 6 hectares and includes various types of buildings and monuments.

As we explored, our guide pointed out the different structures. The most prominent are the talayots, large tower-like buildings, with their exact purpose still being debated by archaeologists. They may have served as lookout towers or centres of social or religious activity.

We also saw the remains of domestic structures, including circular houses with central courtyards. The structure of one of these houses has been restored for visitors to imagine how their layout used to be. One of the most interesting features is the sophisticated water collection system, demonstrating the advanced engineering skills of the Talayotic people.

The site also includes several taulas and T-shaped stone monuments that are unique to Menorca. These mysterious structures, consisting of a vertical stone supporting a horizontal one, are believed to have had religious significance.

Es Mercadal

Before dinner, we headed back to Es Mercadal, our base for this trip, to explore it in the afternoon sunshine. The town is very picturesque, with white buildings and a lovely vibrant atmosphere. One thing I noticed whilst strolling through the town was the many bakeries making ensaimadas and the local rubiols, crescent-shaped pastries filled with jam or cream.

The town’s architecture is typical of inland Menorca, with whitewashed houses and narrow streets designed to provide shade during the hot summer months. The Church of Sant Martí, with its simple yet elegant facade, stands at the heart of the town.

Ice Cream at La Fabrica de Farry

As the weather was simply gorgeous, we had to stop for an ice cream at La Fabrica de Farry in Es Mercadal, which our guide said is one of the best in Menorca. La Fabrica de Farry prides itself on using local, high-quality ingredients to create unique flavours that reflect the tastes of Menorca. I really wanted to taste their unique Mahon cheese flavour, but at that time of the afternoon, they were sold out. So, I went for a classic lemon cheesecake flavour, which was delicious and very refreshing.

Dinner at Tropic

For dinner, we went to Tropic, a modern restaurant in the heart of Es Mercadal. I loved their beautiful décor, with living plants covering parts of the walls and ceiling. We got a table right at the window, which was opened into the street. The weather was warm, and I was craving an al fresco dinner, especially since I haven’t had seen the sun back home in London for a while.

Spanish style, we chose a few appetisers to share, and then we decided on a main course and dessert. I chose the slow-cooked Iberian pork served with a pistachio pesto and red berries. It was beautifully presented on the plate and very flavoursome. I love pork and when I see Iberian pork dishes on the menu, I always order them. The Iberian pork is so tender and has such a great meat flavour due to the way it is raised, roaming free and eating acorns.

From the selection of starters, my favourite was the ceviche. The fish and prawns were marinated in a zingy lime sauce and served with sweet potato crisps. I found it to be a very delicate dish.

For dessert, I chose the local gin sorbet, which I’m not going to lie, was quite alcoholic. But, as we were heading to bed after a long day, it was the perfect way to say good night. 

Day 3:

Ciutadella

We started our third in Menorca by exploring Ciutadella, the former capital of the island. The city centre is a maze of narrow alleys between honey-coloured buildings. The more we approached the harbour, the more the architecture changed, with the alleys becoming narrower, the paved stones rougher, and the buildings simpler.

The Market

Our first stop of the day was the market in Ciutadella, which mainly focuses on fresh fish. Located in a striking modernist building from the early 20th century, it’s not just a place to buy fresh produce, but a social hub where locals gather to shop, chat, and catch up on the latest news.

Here I met Joan, the owner of a small shop selling fruits, vegetables and local Menorcan products. He took over the business from his mother and hopes he will leave it further to his son. The shop was opened by his grandmother, 76 years ago, and he is the third generation looking after it. He proudly showed me the black and white family photo which he has on the wall, behind the counter, depicting his grandmother and young mother with the first stall they opened here.

The products in the market are coming directly from the producers on the island. Here is the best place to stock up on those wonderful, juicy, sun-kissed tomatoes, punnets of fresh, sweet, strawberries, and homemade pastries filled with tuna, Mahon cheese or sobrassada. Even if we arrived quite early to the market, the fish was almost gone. By the time we left, half an hour later, there was barely any left. So, if you are staying in a self-catering apartment and want to indulge in freshly grilled fish, come to the market early! 

The Palace of the County of Torre-Saura

The 18th-century Palacio Torre-saura is one of the most impressive examples of civil architecture in Ciutadella with its neoclassical facade contrasting the medieval buildings surrounding it. When you look at it from the main square you can see how it dominates the architecture around it. And, as a fun fact, the entrance is from the street, not from the main square – that was the carriage entrance. When the building was finished in its current configuration, in 1839, it was thought to be the most beautiful palace on the island. Initially a smaller manor, the building expanded over the years, and you can see that by visiting the interiors. What is now the water cistern, used to be a road between buildings. The ground floor has a very different layout than the upper one.

To entrance to the palace is by walking up a majestic flight of stairs covered with a red carpet – an entrance fit for kings and queens – stepped by Queen Isabella II of Spain herself when her ship didn’t make it to Mahon and diverted to Ciutadella. In fact, one of the rooms in the palace has a chair turned towards the wall, where a portrait of the queen is hung. It is said that was the chair the queen sat on, and, it is turned backwards so that nobody else will ever sit on it.

The Llabrés Pharmacy

Our next stop in Ciutadella was the old Llabrés Pharmacy, which is like a hidden gem in the middle of the city. The Pharmacy is run by the Menorcan People with Disabilities Foundation, which employs guides with disabilities who will show you around. The pharmacy was left to the King of Spain by the last pharmacist who worked there. The entrance is free, with a suggested donation of one euro encouraged.

As we stepped inside, it felt like we had travelled back in time. The original wooden cabinets line the walls, filled with antique glass bottles, ceramic jars, and old medical instruments. The counter, where pharmacists would have dispensed medicines, still stands, complete with its original brass scales.

The museum’s collection includes a wide range of pharmaceutical equipment, from pill-making machines to microscopes. There are also displays of traditional herbal remedies, many of which were sourced from plants native to Menorca.

But what stands out is the impeccable stained-glass windows between the waiting hall and the pharmacy itself. It was fascinating to find out that it was closed in 1983, and until then, people could just go and buy medicine in this gorgeous location.

Lunch at Café Balear

Café Balear prepared a proper fish feast for us. We started with delicate fish croquettes accompanied by a fresh burrata and tomato salad dressed with basil pesto. Next, we were served a delicious platter of deep-fried prawns and baby squid, a delicacy of the Mediterranean areas of Spain.  Of course, Menorcan mussels couldn’t miss either, this time in a lovely white wine and garlic sauce. 

For the main course, I chose the red scorpionfish, which was baked and served with roast vegetables – a typical Menorcan way of cooking this fish. I never had scorpionfish before, so I was surprised at how “meaty” it tasted.

We ended our lunch with the lightest, refreshing crème brulee mousse.

Hike in Son Saura

After lunch, we strolled around Ciutadella a bit more, before boarding our minibus to head to the southern part of the island, for a little hike from Son Saura beaches to Playa des Talaier. Spring and autumn are great times to hike in Menorca because the sun is less intense than in summer. The path is very well maintained, starting on a boardwalk along the beach, and continuing through a pine forest over the cliffs to the little bay of Talaier. Here, we had the beach to ourselves.

Picnic on the Beach in Cala de Talaier

For dinner, lovely Barbara Lluch Salas prepared a wonderful picnic for us and dropped it off before we set off from Ciutadella. We brought it with us on the hike, to have a unique dinner, on the beach. She prepared a selection of traditional Menorcan dishes, such as stuffed aubergines, fritters, coca with tomatoes and basil, and a stir fry of seasonal vegetables. The food was delicious and the setting magical, as by the time we started eating, the sun was preparing to set.

You can order a picnic from Barbara on her Instagram page by clicking here.

Day 4:

Mahon

Our final day in Menorca began in Mahon (Maó in Catalan), the island’s capital and main port. As we approached the city, I noticed how different it was from Ciutadella. Mahon is big, and modern, with large supermarkets and car dealerships on the outskirts of the city. Mahon is perched atop a cliff overlooking one of the largest natural harbours in the world, stretching nearly 5 kilometres inland.

The city’s architecture is a fascinating blend of styles, reflecting its complex history. While wandering through the streets, I noticed an abundance of Georgian-style buildings, a legacy of the 18th-century British occupation. These elegant structures, with their sash windows and wrought-iron balconies, contrast with the more typical Mediterranean architecture found elsewhere on the island.

Museo de Menorca

Our first stop was the Museum of Menorca, housed in a beautifully restored 17th-century Franciscan monastery. As we stepped into the cool, stone-walled interior, we were greeted by an impressive collection that spans the entire history of the island over two different floors.

The museum’s exhibits are arranged chronologically, beginning with the prehistoric period. I was particularly fascinated by the artefacts from the Talayotic culture, unique to the Balearic Islands. These include intriguing bronze figurines and pottery that give insight into the lives of Menorca’s earliest inhabitants.

Moving through the centuries, we encountered Roman mosaics, Islamic ceramics, and medieval religious art. The museum also houses an extensive collection of 18th and 19th-century paintings and furniture, showcasing the island’s more recent cultural heritage.

Ca n’Olivier

From the museum, we made our way to Ca n’Oliver, a restored 18th-century mansion that now serves as a museum dedicated to Mahon’s golden age. The building itself is a masterpiece of neoclassical architecture, with some baroque elements that reflect the changing tastes of the era.

We didn’t have time to visit the museum, but we did enter and glanced at the painted walls and the sculpted ceiling above the grandiose staircase.

Isla del Rey

Passing through the market, we descended into the port and jumped on a boat to go to our next destination, Isla del Rey.

Isla del Rey was home to an 18th-century military hospital, one of the oldest in Europe, which is now a heritage building. As we approached, the imposing yellow stone building came into view, with its simple Georgian façade.

The island played a crucial role in Menorca’s naval history. During the 18th century, when the harbour was a key strategic base for the British Navy, the hospital treated thousands of sailors and soldiers. Walking around the island, we could almost imagine the bustle of activity that must have taken place here during times of war and peace.

Lunch at Cantina on Isla del Rey

Cantina is a wonderful outdoor restaurant on Isla del Rey, shaded by trees, with a beautiful view over the sea. It’s the perfect place for a relaxed lunch, at the end of the most wonderful discovery trip to Menorca.

We started with a delicious melon ajo blanco, which is a cold soup from Andalucia. I never had a melon version of it, but I’m now converted – it was so refreshing and fruity! Next, we tasted the coca de sofrit, a thin pizza-like slice topped with roasted vegetables, and steamed mussels from the harbour. The main course was perfectly chargrilled corn-fed chicken served alongside garlic roast potatoes and baby gem, anchovies and caper berries salad.

For dessert, we enjoyed a lightly roasted apricots served with vanilla ice cream.

Hauser & Wirth Museum

After lunch, we went on a guided tour of the Hauser & Wirth Museum, next door to the restaurant. This gallery is part of the international Hauser & Wirth network, known for establishing art spaces in unexpected locations.

Our visit to Hauser & Wirth Menorca coincided with two remarkable exhibitions that showcased the gallery’s commitment to presenting world-class contemporary art in this unique setting. The art centre is housed in a series of repurposed outbuildings that were once part of the naval hospital complex. The renovation project, led by Argentine architect Luis Laplace, carefully preserved the character of the original 18th-century structures while creating a world-class exhibition space.

The first exhibition, featuring works by acclaimed New York-based artist Roni Horn, was her first solo show in Menorca. Horn’s conceptually oriented work spans diverse media, exploring themes of identity, perception, and the nature of materials. The exhibition included an ambitious installation of solid cast glass sculptures in the South Galleries, inviting visitors to witness the interplay between light, weather, and art. Horn’s work often plays with duality and ambiguity, as seen in pieces like “Black Asphere,” a copper work that challenges our perception of form. The exhibition also featured works inspired by Emily Dickinson’s poetry, demonstrating Horn’s longstanding engagement with literature.

Alongside Horn’s exhibition, we explored “Chillida in Menorca,” a celebration of Eduardo Chillida’s profound connection with the island. This major presentation, part of the “Eduardo Chillida 100 years” commemoration, featured over 60 works spanning half a century of the artist’s career. Chillida, who spent many summers in Menorca since 1989, drew inspiration from the island’s white Mediterranean light, local ‘marès’ stone quarries, and ancient Talayotic monuments. The exhibition showcased a range of Chillida’s work, from his delicate paper “gravitations” to monumental steel sculptures, all exploring his fascination with space, form, and scale.

The outdoor sculpture trail provided a perfect counterpoint to the indoor galleries, allowing us to appreciate the art against the backdrop of Mahon’s stunning harbour. 

Before we left the island we went on a stroll around it, to find the local black lizards, which are endangered but live happily on Isla del Rey.

Stroll Along Es Castell

Before heading to the airport, to catch our evening flight, we took one last stroll around Es Castell, the area where one of the staff members of the hotel said is the prettiest in Menorca. This is because he was from there.

Es Castel is a small fishing harbour on the outskirts of Mahon. Here, traditional fishing boats bob in the water alongside modern yachts, and the waterfront is lined with restaurants and bars. As evening fell, this area came alive with locals and visitors enjoying drinks and tapas by the water – a perfect end to our Menorcan adventure.

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Please note that this article was written after a press trip to Menorca.