From Sea to Table: How Food in Nova Scotia Brings People Together

The waitress put the bowl of steaming seafood chowder, with large mussels and roughly chopped potatoes popping out of the creamy broth, on the table. That first taste of the rich, somehow sweet, of the thick chowder, balanced by the crunchy, fresh celery bits, was pure perfection. I knew at that exact moment that my culinary journey through Nova Scotia would be unique, like nowhere else I have travelled before. That first spoonful of chowder was an incredible introduction to the food in Nova Scotia and the flavours that this Canadian Atlantic region was going to entice me with.

The Food in Nova Scotia

When you think about the food in Nova Scotia, the lobster comes first to mind. It is the most famous product of this part of Canada, exported and loved all over the world. And whilst there are many different ways to enjoy lobster in Nova Scotia, there are other fantastic dishes that are worth trying when you come here. I travelled 1300 kilometres over 7 days, trying to find the best dishes in Nova Scotia. I gathered a notebook full of stories and met the friendliest locals who were more than happy and proud to share their heritage and traditional food with me. And it’s now my honour to share them further, with you. 

Typical Dishes to Try in Nova Scotia

Steamed Lobster

Whilst there are many great places to try lobster in Nova Scotia, Hall’s Harbour does it best. This small fishing village perched on the shores of the Bay of Fundy dates from 1775 and is known for its large lobster pound. 

As the road started to descend towards the village, the sunny skies got covered, all of a sudden, by fog. The windy road leading to the harbour became eerie and atmospheric. I parked the car on the opposite side of the Hall’s Harbour Restaurant and walked around the bay to it. The historical building the restaurant is located in dates from the 1820s. Peaking through an open window, I could see the chef at work, steaming lobster after lobster.

Entering the building, I was greeted by a giant lobster statue at the door. The interior of the wooden building was filled with lobster-themed souvenirs, from classic keychains and fridge magnets to novelty lobster printed socks, cushions and wall décor. In the back, next to the counter, I could see the tanks filled with lobsters of different sizes.

I ordered a small lobster and admitted that I never had a whole one before. The lady taking my order smiled and assured me that the chef would crack the shell for me, so it’s easy to eat. You can choose your own lobster from the tanks, but I didn’t have the heart to look it in the eyes, knowing I will eat it just 20 minutes later. I took the wooden sign with my table number and went to the top floor, from where I had a lovely view of the harbour, as the fog started to rise.

The lobster arrived alongside fries, coleslaw, and melted butter. The waitress told me how to tackle it, and showed me how to get the meat out of the claws. I put my bib on and started to pull the lobster apart, as I’ve seen other customers do, whilst waiting for mine to be cooked. This was the best lobster I have ever had in my life. The meat was so tender and sweet, and dipping it in the hot butter made it even more delightful. Even if I chose the small lobster, there was plenty of meat inside to keep me full for the entire day. 

Award Winning Lobster Rolls

Della is the owner of Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack, in Barrington, a small but very cosy restaurant in the commercial area of the town. If it wasn’t for the recommendation of the tourism office in Barrington, I would have missed it, as I drove right past it. 

Little did I know when I stepped into the restaurant that Della was going to be my server that day. She is part owner of the lobster company that supplies the restaurant with the most loved Nova Scotia’s crustacean. She opened the restaurant in memory of her son, Katlin, who was lost at sea in 2013, when his ship capsized during a storm, claiming the lives of the entire crew on board.

As soon as I stepped in I felt the warmth and home-like feeling of the place, through its maritime decorations. Just by the door stood a tank with lobsters, with plenty of space to move around. One of them was caged, because, as Della explained later, it was shedding. When lobsters change their shell they become very vulnerable, until the new one forms. Lobsters don’t really like each other and, when they are moulting, they can even eat each other. 

I am so grateful that I was recommended to stop at the Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack. I ordered their special lobster roll, which won the first prize in the Nova Scotia Lobster Crawl festival lobster roll competition. The festival celebrates the local lobster industry every February, and eateries from all over the Lighthouse route take place in the competition.

There is no elegant way to eat a lobster roll, so I just dug in. The roll itself, which is specifically custom made for Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack by Dan’s Ice Cream Shoppe was sweet and slightly grilled. The lobster filling, which included an entire claw on the top, was extremely fresh and had a lovely sweet taste. It was perfectly balanced by the freshness of the raw celery, spring onion and spinach leaves. Each bite proved why this is an award-winning lobster roll.

Creamed Lobster Poutine

I still remember that first forkful of lobster poutine at Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant and Brewery, in Yarmouth. I was so hungry, after a full day of exploring the Acadian shores of Nova Scotia, stopping at too many places outside of my itinerary. The piping hot fries mixed with mozzarella cheese that stretched to forever, generously topped with creamed lobster were delightful.

The creamed lobster is a speciality of Yarmouth and the Acadian shores, a recipe that was created over 50 years ago by Clara Harris, a former very cherished restaurant owner in the area. Whilst she passed away recently, her legacy is still alive at Rudder’s Restaurant through her original recipe. She visited the restaurants years ago, when she held a book signing.

The creamed lobster poutine was extremely decadent, so good that I could just not stop mopping the plate clean. It didn’t matter that I also ordered and finished a large starter, the dish was so good that I had to finish it, to the last bit of sauce on the plate. It was one of those dishes that just make you happy. I left the restaurant with a big smile on my face, almost rolling back to my car, due to feeling so full. 

Fried Clams

The Crow’s Nest is famous in Digby for its seafood, especially the fried clams. So popular that I didn’t manage to get a seat at a table during my first night in this quiet town. And it wasn’t even the peak tourist season. I tried again the second evening, and, after a bit of a wait, I was welcomed to share a table with an older wonderful American couple. We started chatting in the queue and it turns out they drove behind me all the way from Tiverton to Digby. We both went whale watching near Digby that day, on different boats. They realised it was me who drove in front of them because I got out of the car on the ferry to take photos. So they decided to invite me to join them for dinner. Chatting, we found out that we actually were staying at the same hotel, and met again in the morning, for breakfast.

We got a table on the outdoor terrace, overlooking the beautiful harbour, just as the sunset began. All of us decided to order the seafood platter, which included a large haddock, fried clams, scallops, and grilled shrimp, alongside a generous amount of fries, slaw, wedges of lemon, and a pack of seafood sauce.

The clams, deep-fried, with a golden batter, were light and crispy. They definitely have an acquired taste, which made me think of the ocean. They tasted quite briny but with a certain sweetness, crispy but with an almost creamy inside. I liked them a lot.

Digby Scallops

Digby scallops are known all over the world as a Canadian delicacy, because of their sweet, rich taste. They are so fresh that when you eat them, if you close your eyes, you can almost feel the sea. That is if you don’t enjoy them by the sea, as I did, in both Digby and Yarmouth.  

The first scallop beds in the Bay of Fundy were not discovered until 1920 and were first harvested in 1922. That year, only 600 scallops were collected. Fast forwarding to today, the Digby scallops industry has grown to be one of the largest fishing fleets in the world. No wonder that Digby is well known as the Scallop Capital of the World.

It takes approximately eight years for a scallop to reach its harvest size, which is between 15-20 centimetres in diameter. They live on the bottom of the sea in large groups, which are known as “beds”. They are self-sufficient and don’t move unless they are disturbed. They love cold water and depths, in which they thrive. And with the Bay of Fundy having the highest tides in the world, it makes the perfect environment for the scallops to grow happy and healthy.  

The first scallops I tasted were at the Crow’s Nest in Digby, on the already famous platter I’ve raved about above. They were seared, served on their shell with a wedge of lemon. I have had scallops before, but most had a very mild taste. Not the Digby scallops though. They were full of flavour, sweet, with such a tender texture.

The second Digby scallops portion I had was at Rudder’s, in Yarmouth. The scallops were wrapped in bacon, pan-fried, and served with a spicy seafood dip. At first, I thought the combination might be overpowering, but it wasn’t. The bacon was crispy and smoky, which went so well with the sweetness of the scallops. The sauce just brought the two flavours together, through a bit of heat. Wonderful!

Adam and Knickle Scallops

Nova Scotia is not only home to the Digby Scallops but also to the Adam and Knickle Scallops. I met Wilfred Moore at the Lunenburg Heritage House tour which I accidentally joined during my visit to the town. The day before I tried the local Adam and Knickle scallops in a delicious chowder, at the Grand Banker Bar & Grill and I remember how big, juicy and fresh I thought they were.

Wilfred Moore is married to Jane Adams Moore, the president of Adams and Knickle, who is a descendant of the original founders of the company. The fishery, even if it was opened in 1897, is still family-run. They own a fleet of boats which go out on the sea for weeks at a time. The ships are equipped with gear that can freeze the scallops as soon as they have been caught, to preserve their freshness. 

Wilfred showed me a replica of their boats, and explained how they freeze the oysters directly on the boat. He also showed me a few heritage tools their older boats were equipped with, including an old letter punching machine with a wheel on top, used to date the scallops. 

Rappie Pie

“We’ve heard you’d like to try our Rappie Pie”, Alison cheerfully shouted from the porch of the café at the Historic Acadian Village of Nova Scotia, in Pubnico. 

“I sure am!”, I replied, heading her way.

Alison, Nancy and Sheila are three housewives who run Café du Crique, on the site of the Historic Acadian Village. They cook everything from scratch and they were so kind as to spend their break telling me about the traditional Acadian Rappie Pie.

Acadians, who settled in the back then New France Colony of Acadia during the 17th and 18th centuries, had a diet based on root vegetables, potatoes, and meat coming from the land such as pheasants, venison, and wild rabbits. They would cultivate their land with vegetables that would be easy to preserve for winter, and they would grow chickens and pigs in their yards.

The Rappie Pie is a humble pie dish with a massive heritage, which you can only find in this part of Nova Scotia. What is interesting is that the Rappie Pie has only been developed after the Great Deportation, and not before. It is a simple dish, made with potatoes, stock, and chicken. The dish is seasoned with salted onions, another traditional way of cooking in L’Acadie. 

Whilst the Rappie Pie was considered a treat, served only on special occasions, today it has become a comfort food.

There are two ways to eat the Rappie Pie. One is with butter and the other with molasses. Alison prepared a plate for me with a small portion of Rappie Pie. I requested it to be small as it wasn’t yet lunchtime but my stomach was still full from the delicious homemade breakfast I had earlier. She gave me a pack of butter and one of molasses, asking me to tell her which one I preferred best. I was intrigued by the molasses add-on, as the pie was savoury, filled with chicken. Not only did it work, but it was also delicious and my favourite combination. Whilst the butter was a nice addition, the molasses simply added that extra layer of flavour to the saltiness of the pie, elevating its taste. It was without a doubt my first choice.

Whilst I was indulging in the Rappie pie in front of me, the café opened for lunch. I am not exaggerating when saying that locals were queuing in front of the door. And no wonder, as the smell of the soup of the day bubbling in the kitchen, had spread over the entire room. All of a sudden the entire place came to life, with bowls full of steaming soup topped with potatoes, cabbage and pork starting to leave the counter, with happy chatters in the background.

Seafood Chowder

Before travelling to Nova Scotia I thought that chowder was an American dish. It is not though. The Chowder originated in Atlantic Canada when the French fishermen brought the recipe over from France. It became a very popular dish, now one of the essential comfort dishes in Nova Scotia.

In fact, a hearty chowder was part of my first dinner in Nova Scotia. I was glancing over the menu and almost deciding on a plate of seafood fettuccine, when the waitress passed by with a tray holding steaming bowls of chowder. And that’s when I changed my order.

“I want what they are having”, I said, and she laughed. The guests at that table ordered the chowder after a similar experience.

From the first spoon, I knew that I made the right choice. The chowder was creamy, packed with pieces of haddock, smoked fish, scallops and mussels. The fish was cooked to perfection, tender and flavoursome. The raw bits of celery and the green fennel gave the chowder texture and a fresh flavour in each spoonful. I moped the plate with the caramelised biscuit, served alongside. What a great introduction to the food in Nova Scotia!

Cajun Seafood Stew

Looking over the menu at Grand Banker Bar & Grill, I noticed a unique dish that I hadn’t seen at any other restaurant during my trip to Nova Scotia: the cajun seafood stew. I was curious. Even if I really wanted to order the Lunenburger, a unique lobster burger which was recommended and everyone seems to rave about, I chose the seafood stew instead.

On the menu, the seafood stew was described as “our signature Cajun-style stew that brings the Acadian influence back home”. I asked the waitress what was the history of this dish, but she could only tell me that it’s one of their signature dishes that has been on the menu since 1996. I wanted to know more, so after doing a bit of research, I found out another incredible fact about the food in Nova Scotia. The Cajun cuisine, so famous in Louisiana, has its roots in historic Acadia. When the British deported the Acadians, during the French and Indian War, some of them settled in Southern Louisiana. As they weren’t able to cook their traditional dishes, they started adapting, incorporating different influences, creating what today is known as Cajun cuisine. This is a rustic way of cooking, with locally available produce, using staple ingredients such as prawns, crawfish, and smoked sausages.

After a long day of hiking in Kejimkujik National Park and a two-hour drive to Lunenburg, the cajun seafood stew was the perfect dish to end the evening with. The portion was huge. This stew was spicy and lively, with a light smokiness which made the dish so unique. It was packed with large Adams and Knickle scallops, mussels, pieces of haddock, and big prawns. I ordered a portion of fries on the side, which turned out to be a perfect choice, to dip in the leftover sauce, once I finished the seafood inside. At the end of the meal I was so full that I almost regretted not driving into town – my hotel was on the outskirts of Lunenburg. Thinking about it now, two months after my trip, I can still remember the stew’s distinctive taste. 

Halifax Donair

The Halifax Donair is the official late night snack of the city. You can find it at the pizza shops around town, and it’s an essential part of the Halifax experience. I have spent only one full day in Halifax and with so much amazing food, I didn’t get a chance to try the donair on that occasion. However, I couldn’t have left Nova Scotia without trying it, so, whilst waiting for my delayed flight, I ordered a Halifax donair at the airport.

Served in a more elegant way than in a takeaway pizza shop, the donair was made using the same ingredients: fluffy pita bread topped with spit-roasted shaved beef, slices of raw onions and tomatoes, and an intriguing sweet, garlicky sauce.

It’s interesting to know that the history of the Halifax donair doesn’t go that far into the past. It was invented in the ‘70s by a Greek immigrant named Peter Gamoulakos. At first, he tried to bring the Greek gyros to Halifax, but, after failing, he modified it and invented the donair. The dish became so popular that it is now the official food of Halifax.

Salted Fish

Salted fish is another staple of the traditional Acadian cuisine and a typical food in Nova Scotia. I have passed several times through villages where the salted or dried fish was advertised in the yard of houses. 

Meat and fish in Acadia were preserved in salt or brine, to last for a long time, over winter. The most popular fish that are still preserved and you can buy dried, are haddock and pollock.

The taste and texture of the dried fish reminded me a little bit of biltong. Just in a fishy form. It’s great for snacks and has quite a strong flavour.

The Tangled Garden’s Jellies and Marmalades

Visiting Beverly at the Tangled Garden was such a delightful experience. First, I wandered around the garden on my own, experiencing the peacefulness of an early, foggy morning. The spider webs on the plants were covered with dew droplets, shining in the mild light, making an intricate background for the colourful flowers. I was the only visitor for a while, having the entire place to myself. I walked slowly through the green labyrinth, listening to the chirps of the different birds flying from one branch to another of the ancient trees on the property.

Chatting with Beverly, the creator of the garden, I found out that her quince tree is over 125 years old, whilst the oak is believed to be close to 400 years old. On her five acres of land, she has built a magical herb and fruit farm, with tangled pathways leading to small corners of meditation and relaxation.

She is playing with the ingredients of the land to create her own recipes for jams and jellies. Every visit to the garden includes a tasting of her newest recipes, which you can buy from her shop as well. Made only with natural ingredients, her creations are wonderful. I tasted the garlic and rosemary jam, the thyme, ginger and lime, as well as the dill, cucumber and chilli. They all took my taste buds on a journey, with the initial flavour changing after a few seconds. Beverly can surely make magic with her jellies.

B&Bs Breakfasts

During my road trip around Nova Scotia, I stayed at quite a few bed and breakfasts, all unique, and all with a welcoming couple working together to make my stay perfect. The breakfasts were the biggest event of the day. I was always asked the night before what time I would like to have breakfast, as well as what I would like to enjoy.

George, from the Argyle B&B, was extremely proud about his bacon cooking skills. Bacon was his job and he took it very seriously every morning. I wouldn’t even imagine saying no to having bacon in the morning. His wife, Beatrice, cooked fresh eggs from the garden, baked bread, and joined me and another couple at the breakfast table. We spent one hour chatting about the most diverse topics you could think of.

Barb, from Come From Away B&B in Digby cooked another filling breakfast for me, before going whale watching for the day. She made eggs Benedict, roast potatoes, and the never missing bacon, served in the homely decorated small dining room of her and Joe’s historical Edwardian house. As there were only three tables in the dining room, it was very easy to chat with the other guests of the B&B, share tips for our trips, and start the day with a good conversation.  

Molasses Cookies

As soon as I entered the first Acadian house from the Historic Acadian Village of Nova Scotia I could smell the sweet aroma in the air. On the table there was a tray filled with molasses cookies resting, after baking. The kitchen was busy, with another tray of cookies going into the oven, and a potato stew over the open fire.

These cookies are famous around Pubnico. They are prepared daily in the village, and offered to visitors, as a welcome gift. They are soft cookies, made with a simple dough with flour, butter, eggs, milk, and a lot of French molasses. The slight spice in the cookies comes from the ginger and cloves added to the dough. They are delicious.

Grand-Pré Wines

The small car park at Grand-Pré Winery backs into the rows of vines, filled with grapes at this time of the year. I locked the car – although I noticed most of the cars in the car park had their windows down due to the heat – and headed towards the main building. I noticed a group going in, so I decided to follow the path through the vineyard, and take a stroll first. 

Following the path, I arrived at the Landscape of Grand Pré View Park from where I could see the Memorial Church at the Grand-Pré memorial and the meadow surrounding it. Back at the main building of the vineyard, I entered the shop and was greeted by Cecilia and Colleen. Cecilia was in charge of the shop, whilst Colleen was one of the sommeliers leading the wine tastings.

Whilst I couldn’t do a wine tasting due to driving, I did have a great conversation with the two ladies about the local wines they produce at the vineyard. Grand Pré is the oldest vineyard in Nova Scotia and was first opened in 1979. In 1994 it was taken over by a Swiss family, and it has been family owned ever since. That’s when all the vines have been replanted and the L’Acadie Blanc grape was introduced to the region. Whilst this is not a native grape to Nova Scotia, as it has been developed in Ontario, it has best adapted to the climate here, and it is now cultivated only in Atlantic Canada. The grape was named after the local Acadiens. Whilst I didn’t taste the wine at the vineyard, I did buy a bottle and had a glass later that day, on the porch of my B&B in Digby.

Another great wine to try at the Grand-Pré Winery is the Tidal Bay, a blend of five different varieties created as a tribute to Nova Scotia. What makes this wine unique is that it is produced by other vineyards around Nova Scotia as well, following the same flavour profile and a strict list of standards. You could think of it as a DOC of Nova Scotia.

Saltbox Craft Beers

I almost didn’t make it to Saltbox, a small brewery in Mahone Bay. It was my last day in Nova Scotia and I spent too much time in Lunenburg. I had to get back to the airport by 7 pm and visit Peggy’s Cove on the way as well.

After a quick stop in Mahone Bay, the heat really got to me, and I walked back to the car park instead of Saltbox, which was in the opposite direction. I got in, turned on the engine, and put the air conditioning on. In a split second, I decided that I must drive to Saltbox, ask about their lobster beer, and then be on my way. I don’t know if I should call it faith, but meeting Patrick – one of the owners of the brewery – Greg and Nick was one of the most inspiring experiences of the entire trip to Nova Scotia. I can’t imagine skipping Saltbox, driving straight to Peggy’s Cove and missing out on this incredible encounter. One hour later, I was still there, chatting with the three friends about lobster beer, living life between the lines, and everything else in between. 

Going back to the beer though, Saltbox is a craft brewery that also produces seasonal lobster beer. Whilst it wasn’t available during my trip, I did try one of their non-alcoholic varieties and really enjoyed it. It didn’t taste different or watery, as most non-alcoholic beers usually do. It tasted just like good, delicious, hoppy beer. 

The brewery produces craft beers that highlight the heritage of the area. Each product has a story on their label, a tribute to different communities, to which that particular beer is dedicated to. The brewery itself is a welcoming place for anyone to spend a good time with friends, family, or, in my case, make new friends. Everyone is treated like family at Saltbox. 

Final Thoughts 

Seven days spent around Nova Scotia were enough to convince me that I need to return to this beautiful land with kind and friendly people. This introduction to the food in Nova Scotia wouldn’t have been possible without the amazing locals I met, who were so welcoming and happy to share their heritage with me. From the lobster in Halls Harbour to the L’Acadie wine, I hope your trip to Nova Scotia is going to be as meaningful as mine. Let me know in the comments below!

For more related articles, check out my recommendations below:

• How to go to Niagara Falls without a tour
• How to spend one day in Halifax

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Many thanks to the Nova Scotia Tourism Board who kindly helped me with the car hire, two nights accommodation and plenty of great advice for my trip.