The Best Free Things to Do in Edinburgh, in Rain or Sunshine

I lived in the UK for over 10 years before finally deciding to visit Scotland. And I carefully planned my trip in May, hoping for sunshine, good weather, and a gorgeous full bloom spring in the city. However, Edinburgh welcomed me with impressive quantities of rain even from before arriving, when the pilot had to make a manual landing due to the heavy clouds and fog surrounding the city. Stepping outside of the airport, I felt like the sky had sprung a leak. It rained almost continuously during my trip.

By trying to hide from the downpours, I found many great and surprising free things to do in Edinburgh, and this is how this guide was born. Yes, I did get back on the plane back home with soaked shoes, a wet backpack and a dump passport, landing feeling grateful for the cold weather back in London, but strangely, I loved every minute of my time exploring Edinburgh.

The Best Free Things to Do in Edinburgh

Wandering the Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is the spine of Edinburgh’s Old Town. It is a long, sloping ribbon of cobblestones stretching from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It’s beautiful on a sunny day, I’m sure, but I only saw it glistening under layers of rain, which honestly added a kind of medieval drama to the whole experience.

Despite the rain, the Mile was buzzing. People in ponchos, tourists with broken umbrellas, street performers in full costume who just carried on with cheerful determination. It seems that in Edinburgh bad weather is not a reason to stay inside.

I spent hours exploring the tiny, crooked closes branching off the street. Each one hides its own mini-adventure. Some are steep staircases leading to viewpoints; others open into hidden courtyards that made my imagination of how the 18th century looked like come to life.

The Royal Mile is also where I truly began to understand Edinburgh’s layered history. Walking it feels like pressing your face right up against centuries of stories. You start at the castle which is imposing, brooding, and dramatic, then gradually descend through a living museum of medieval architecture until you reach Holyrood Palace, where the buildings suddenly open up and the craggy outline of Arthur’s Seat looms behind like a guardian.

Arthur’s Seat – I Climbed a Volcano and Saw… Nothing

Let me tell you about the day I climbed Arthur’s Seat, one of the best free things to do in Edinburgh. I set out full of optimism after carefully studying the weather forecast to find that break in the rain, convincing myself that I’d finally get one of those iconic panoramic views of Edinburgh.

Five minutes in, the rain started.
Ten minutes in, the fog rolled down like a theatre curtain.
Twenty minutes in, visibility was so low I could barely see the path in front of me.

The stones were so slippery and each step proved to be a debate if it was safe or not to go ahead. But I wanted to reach the top, so I continued. By the time I reached the top, I could see absolutely nothing, just a white wall of mist. There was no reward for my hard work, getting to the top. The wind pushed the rain sideways, soaking me from every angle, and the path had turned into a small river on my way down. I slipped more than once, clutching little tufts of grass to stabilise myself like an overly dramatic mountaineer. It was wet, cold, ridiculous, and honestly? One of my favourite memories of the trip. I got back to my hotel soaked, but it was an adventure.

Victoria Street

Victoria Street is one of those places in Edinburgh that you will see in most postcards of the city. The street curves sharply down from the Old Town, lined with colourful shopfronts, narrow stairways, and an almost dizzying jumble of signs. I was lucky that my hotel was right at the bottom of the street, so I climbed or descended it many times during my street in Edinburgh.

It’s easy to get distracted here. I had coffee at the small French bakery at the bottom of the street, but also bought local cheese from the cheese monger and bought a beautiful flamingo shaped vase from an art shop.

Be warned though! When it rains, the water simply rolls downhill like a river. No waterproof pair of shoes can stand in its way. Maybe just wellies.

Greyfriars Bobby & Kirkyard

From Victoria Street, it’s a short walk to Greyfriars Kirkyard, one of the most atmospheric cemeteries in Edinburgh. And yes, it’s also where the story of Greyfriars Bobby, the little Skye Terrier who supposedly guarded his owner’s grave for years, comes from.

Finding Greyfriars Bobby’s statue was a little bright spot in the gloom. He’s small, and clearly well-loved by visitors.

St Giles’ Cathedral

Walking along the Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral feels like a natural stopping point, especially that it’s free of charge. The interior is impressive without being overwhelming. I spent some time wandering inside, looking up at the vaulted ceilings, and admiring the stained glass windows and walls which hold centuries of Edinburgh’s life. One of my favourite little details was the Thistle Chapel, with its intricate carvings and dark woodwork.

St Mary’s Cathedral

A short walk from the Old Town brings you to St Mary’s Cathedral, which is a completely different experience from St Giles’. While St Giles’ is central and bustling, St Mary’s feels more spacious and peaceful. I found it to be an unexpected refuge on my soggy day in Edinburgh.

The cathedral’s Gothic architecture is striking, with tall pointed arches and dramatic stained glass that catches whatever light manages to get through the cloudy sky. Even wandering the nave and small side chapels felt like an exploration. There’s a lot to notice if you take your time: details in the stonework, memorial plaques tucked into corners, and the sheer scale of the space, which is surprisingly airy despite its stone walls.

National Museum of Scotland

When the rain started pouring yet again, I made a beeline for the National Museum of Scotland, and it immediately became my safe haven.

The museum is massive, and it’s surprisingly easy to spend hours wandering without realizing it. I started with the natural history exhibits, stuffed animals, fossils, and an unexpectedly impressive array of Scottish wildlife. Even with the crowds, the space never felt cramped; you can find a quiet corner to pause and catch your breath.

Upstairs, I explored the Scottish history and culture galleries. I loved how the exhibits combined objects, stories, and multimedia displays. And the best part? The museum is completely free, including the rooftop terrace.

National Gallery of Scotland

The National Gallery of Scotland is another great place to visit when the weather doesn’t allow you to spend time outdoors. I loved that they gave me a little bag for my umbrella, so it doesn’t drip on the floor.

The gallery’s collection is extensive, but you don’t have to be an art expert to enjoy it. I found myself lingering over a few of the Scottish landscapes, enjoying how the light in the paintings reflected the city outside.

Museum of Childhood

Now this is a unique museum that I never thought I would get to visit. The Museum of Childhood is tucked in the Old Town and very unassuming from the outside. Inside though it’s packed with toys, games, and dolls from generations past.

It’s surprisingly large for such a niche museum, stretching on several floors, and the layout encourages slow exploration. Even if you don’t usually visit museums, this one is fun and entirely free.

Writers’ Museum

The Writer’s Museum was on my list of places to visit in Edinburgh. It’s tucked away in a small square, quite hard to find even with Google Maps directions. I went around the building a couple of times before I found the small door leading to a spiral staircase climbing to the entrance. This small museum focuses on Scotland’s literary legends – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson – and it’s packed with artifacts, letters, manuscripts, and personal items.

I appreciated how compact it was. You can see everything in an hour or less, which makes it a perfect pitstop when the weather turns nasty. There are plenty of interactive elements that kind of connect you to Scotland’s cultural history.

Explore Dean Village

Dean Village was one of the places I was most curious about before my trip, mostly because every photo online makes it look like the most peaceful corner of Edinburgh. Even with the May rain following me everywhere, it didn’t disappoint.

I reached it by following walking from the New Town. What surprised me most wasn’t how pretty it was, but how quiet. For somewhere so close to the centre, it feels like the city simply forgot about it. The buildings here have that sturdy, old-fashioned Scottish look with thick stone walls, tall windows, sharp rooftops. The river runs right through the middle, and because of the rain it was moving quite fast, louder than I expected, flooding its banks and the path alongside it.

Dean Village is small, and you don’t come here for attractions or things to “do”. You come to walk around slowly, take in the surroundings, and just enjoy a bit of calm. Even though the weather was miserable, it actually added to the atmosphere.

Climb Calton Hill

Calton Hill is perfect if you want a quick, low-effort taste of Edinburgh’s skyline. Unlike Arthur’s Seat, you don’t need to prepare for a workout or worry about slipping on muddy paths. Just bring a waterproof jacket, maybe a hat, and enjoy the city stretching out beneath you. Even with clouds and drizzle, it’s one of the most satisfying free experiences in the city.

The first thing I noticed was how open the views are. From the top, you get a clear line across the city: the castle looming in the distance, the grid of New Town streets, and, in better weather, the hills stretching beyond. The hill itself is scattered with monuments: the Nelson Monument, the National Monument, and a few smaller statues. It gives you something to explore along the way, so it doesn’t feel like just a walk up a hill.

Exploring Stockbridge

After leaving Dean Village, I wandered over to Stockbridge, which quickly became one of my favourite neighbourhoods in the city. With its wide streets lined with Georgian townhouses, little independent shops, cafés spilling out onto the pavement when it’s dry, and plenty of green spaces, Stockbridge is a great area of Edinburgh to explore.

If you’re in the area on a Sunday, the Stockbridge Market is worth checking out, with stalls selling local food, crafts, and books.

Dean Cemetery

Just a short walk from Dean Village is Dean Cemetery, a quiet spot that feels completely separate from the city streets. I got here by chance, following two girls chatting about a special place to see. I am not a stalker, haha, I was just curious after randomly hearing their conversation. From what I gathered, one of them was visiting the other, who promised to show her a unique place in town. And this is how I discovered Dean Cemetery.

The cemetery is large, and the paths wind gently between old monuments, family plots, and surprisingly grand mausoleums. Some of the stones are covered in moss, the lettering weathered and softened by decades. There was no other person around and the entire place felt quiet, maybe too quiet to be comfortable in a cemetery. But, the grand monuments here are definitely worth seeing.

Water of Leith Walkway

One of my favourite discoveries in Edinburgh was the Water of Leith Walkway. Whilst I couldn’t follow the path due to the river overflowing, I’ve seen it from the top of the road and it looked like a great place to explore green in Edinburgh. The walkway runs along the river, weaving past trees, small bridges, and quiet residential areas. As you follow the path, you pass Dean Village, which is particularly picturesque along the river, and then continue toward Stockbridge.

Forth Bridge Footpath

For a completely different perspective and another great free thing to do in Edinburgh, the Forth Bridge footpath is a must. It’s a bit further out from central Edinburgh, but if you’re up for it, it offers an incredible view of the famous railway bridge spanning the Firth of Forth.

Princes Street Gardens

Between the hustle of the Royal Mile and the drizzle outside, I found Princes Street Gardens to be a surprisingly peaceful spot. The gardens stretch along the base of Edinburgh Castle, providing a green, open space that contrasts with the surrounding streets.

There are benches scattered throughout, which are ideal if you just want to sit for a few minutes, take in the view, and maybe enjoy a cup of takeaway coffee from a nearby café. The gardens are completely free and a great way to experience Edinburgh’s charm without any crowds or cost.

Scottish Parliament Building

The Scottish Parliament Building is a completely different kind of Edinburgh experience. I joined one of the free guided tours, which was a highlight of my visit. The guide was friendly and knowledgeable, explaining both the design of the building and the way the Scottish Parliament functions. It was fascinating to see the debating chamber and public areas up close, and it’s entirely free to enter (though booking a tour in advance is recommended).

Even if you don’t take the tour, walking around the outside and exploring the building’s unusual angles and landscaped surroundings is interesting. It’s a stark contrast to the historic stone of the Old Town, showing another side of Edinburgh’s character.

City Chambers

City Chambers, located on the Royal Mile, is another free stop worth considering, especially if you like architecture and history. The building itself is grand and imposing, with a stone façade that immediately signals its importance.

Inside, you can take a self-guided tour through the ceremonial rooms. The gilded ceilings, ornate decorations, and portraits of past civic leaders are surprisingly impressive, and wandering around feels like stepping into another era.

Royal Scottish Academy

Finally, the Royal Scottish Academy is a must for anyone interested in art, and best of all, it’s free. The collection focuses on Scottish art, including both contemporary and historical works. I spent time examining paintings and sculptures, enjoying how the modern pieces interacted with the historic architecture of the gallery itself. The space is well laid out and easy to explore at your own pace, which made it a perfect spot to recover from the rain and continue exploring the city without feeling rushed.

Finding the Harry Potter Connections

Even if you’re not a die-hard Potterhead, Edinburgh makes it easy to spot connections to J.K. Rowling’s famous series, and the fun part is, it doesn’t cost anything to explore. I made a little self-guided tour during my May visit:

• Victoria Street is the obvious starting point. Its curved, colourful buildings and crooked stairways are widely said to have inspired Diagon Alley. Walking along it in the drizzle, I could easily imagine witches and wizards slipping through the shops. Even just noticing the whimsical shopfronts and uneven pavement is enough to feel the magic.
• Next, The Elephant House café — where Rowling wrote parts of the early books — is technically free to see from the outside. I didn’t go in to drink anything, but peering through the window gave a real sense of the inspiration behind the books.
• If you wander the Greyfriars Kirkyard, keep an eye out for tombstones with unusual names. Rowling reportedly borrowed some of these for character names. I walked slowly through the rain, trying not to slip on the wet cobbles, and found it fun spotting the ones that might have inspired her: McGonagall, Moodie, and more.
• Other subtle connections appear along the Royal Mile and in George Heriot’s School (viewed from the outside). Even if you don’t actively seek them, you can’t help but notice little nods to the series while exploring Edinburgh’s historic streets.

For more articles about Edinburgh, check out my recommendations below:

• What to do in Edinburgh in winter
• What to eat in Edinburgh

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