Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and a lively city throughout the year. It’s known for its juxtaposing gothic and neoclassical architecture, literary heritage and its world-famous Edinburgh Fringe Festival which takes place every summer. But what is it like during the wintertime? Is visiting Edinburgh in winter worth it? The answer is yes!
The first time I visited Edinburgh was during the winter and I fell madly in love with the city. Its moody architecture becomes even more atmospheric, cafes become cosier and you can bundle into pubs with roaring fires. Edinburgh is cold in winter but you’ll find warmth in its exceptional hospitality and in exploring its cobblestone streets. Here’s how to visit Edinburgh in winter.
Weather in Edinburgh in winter
Temperatures drop to between 1-7° Celsius in winter and the coldest months are January and February. You can expect gusty, chilling winds and an average rainfall of about 9.5 days. There might even be snow!
So yes, it’s cold but the crisp air makes the architecture and atmosphere of the city shine even brighter. Think cosy pubs and light from the shop windows spilling out onto the streets and dark gothic buildings dusted with snow. It’s truly magical but just remember to bring lots of warm clothes with you.
It’s worth mentioning that days are shortest during the winter. Daylight lasts from about 7 am to 6 pm at the beginning and end of the season while midwinter (around the 21st of December) has the shortest days of the year. The sun rises at about 8.45 am and sets at around 3.30 pm. I recommend bearing this in mind as it will impact how you plan your itinerary.
What to wear in Edinburgh in winter
As the saying goes, ‘There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.’ If you’re visiting Edinburgh in winter, you need to prepare for rain, cold temperatures and possibly snow.
Layers will be your best friend as they will give you the option to bundle up or take items off depending on how you feel. Ideally, pack long-sleeved tops, lightweight jumpers and possibly a set of thermals if you tend to feel the cold. Jeans or equivalent trousers will be handy and if you plan to wear a dress or skirt, pack thick tights. Leave bare legs to the kilt-wearing Scots; they’re used to the chill, after all!
Sturdy walking boots are essential for navigating the myriad of cobblestone streets and narrow, steep steps. Pair them with thick socks to keep your toes warm. Wear a thick winter coat that’s ideally waterproof in case of rain or snow. Don’t forget to add a scarf, a hat and a pair of gloves to your Scotland packing list to keep you snug in the nipping breeze.
How to get around Edinburgh in winter
Edinburgh city centre is very walkable and most attractions are within a one-mile radius. However, there are steep hills and steps to contend with so if you don’t fancy travelling on foot, you can make the most of buses, trams and bikes too.
The main bus operator is Lothian Buses which operates on more than 50 routes, including the route from Edinburgh Airport to the city centre. They also run 24 hours a day with an hourly NightBus service. Adult single fares start from £1.80 and a day ticket with unlimited buses is £4.50. You can pay with exact cash or a contactless bank card.
The Edinburgh tram route starts from Edinburgh Airport and runs through the city centre before terminating at Newhaven. They are competitively priced with the buses but they don’t run all night and they’re not as useful for getting around. You won’t be able to get close to Old Town or the Royal Mile on the tram, for example.
Edinburgh Cycle Hire is another option for getting around on wheels. There are electric and pedal bike stations across Edinburgh and you can unlock them with an app on your phone. I don’t recommend renting a car as the city centre is so compact. You’ll be spending more time stuck in traffic or worrying about parking! If you want to explore further afield, there are some amazing day trips from Edinburgh by public transport.
Things to do in Edinburgh in winter
From self-guided walking tours and scouting the best hot chocolate to climbing extinct volcanoes and exploring historic castles, there’s plenty to do in Edinburgh in winter. The city becomes extra cosy in the colder weather with snug bars and cafes and interesting museums to warm up in.
If you’re outdoorsy, there are some fantastic hikes around Holyrood Park, including the trail up Arthur’s Seat which has incredible views. Christmas and New Year are big celebrations in Edinburgh so you can expect the city to be bustling with festivities from Christmas markets to street parties.
If you happen to time your visit to the 25th of January, the city will be celebrating Burns Night in honour of the Scottish poet, Robert Burns. Scots will be eating a traditional Burns supper with haggis, neeps and tatties. So, without further ado, here’s what I recommend doing on your trip to Edinburgh.
Do a self-guided walking tour
As I’ve previously mentioned, Edinburgh is a walkable city so one of the best things to do is a self-guided walking tour of the main attractions. Don’t worry, if you get too cold, you can warm up in a cafe or hop on a bus for part of the way.
Edinburgh is divided into Old Town and New Town so I would visit the attractions in each area one at a time. Where you start your walking tour is up to you and where your hotel is based.
One unmissable place to visit in Edinburgh New Town is Calton Hill. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a volcanic hill that features a collection of neoclassical structures including the unfinished National Monument. It was meant to be a replica of the Parthenon in Athens.
You’ll also find the City Observatory, the Dugald Stewart Monument and the Nelson Monument. Architecture aside, you also get one of the best views of Edinburgh here. The panoramic view extends across the city to Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat and down towards the Firth of Forth.
Other landmarks in New Town are the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, the Georgian House, Edinburgh Botanic Garden and Princes Street. If you’re in the area, the nearby district Stockbridge also has some gems such as Circus Lane and Dean Village. These are two picturesque, plant-filled neighbourhoods that look like they belong in a rural town rather than a city.
In Princes Street, don’t miss Princes Street Gardens which sits under the shadow of Edinburgh Castle on the hill above. Things to spot here include the gothic Scott Monument and the dazzling blue Ross Fountain which is a famous castle photo spot.
By this point, you’re ready to visit Old Town, my favourite part of Edinburgh. Walk up the hill to the Royal Mile, a long sloping street with Edinburgh Castle at the top and the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. Landmarks in Old Town to look out for include St Gile’s Cathedral, Victoria Street, Greyfriars Kirkyard and Camera Obscura World of Illusions. For another incredible view of Edinburgh Castle, go to the Vennel Steps in Grassmarket.
Climb Arthur’s Seat
Climbing Arthur’s Seat is a rite of passage for all Edinburgh visitors. The ancient volcanic hill sits in Holyrood Park behind Edinburgh Old Town. It’s a short, moderate walk to the summit but once you reach it, you’re rewarded with panoramic views of Edinburgh sprawled around you.
There are a couple of routes up Arthur’s Seat. I made the mistake of tackling the steepest track which was doable but hard work. I recommend the route which starts from Queen’s Drive. It takes about two hours to complete with some rocky and uneven tracks but it’s a beautiful walk through gently rolling hills dotted with the occasional small loch. Look out for the picturesque ruin of St Anthony’s Chapel.
In winter, the best time to walk up Athur’s Seat is in the morning on a bright day. By lunchtime, the summit gets crowded and by the afternoon, you have to contend with the dwindling light.
Step inside Edinburgh Castle
It’s impossible to visit Edinburgh without noticing the hulking shape of Edinburgh Castle sitting high on an extinct volcano known as Castle Hill. The site has held a fortress since the Iron Age although the castle we see today was built in 1103 AD. It’s still an impressive 900 years old!
The castle is open to visitors all year round and if you visit during Christmas, its Great Hall is decked with festive decorations. There are also special events and themed afternoon teas. The rest of the castle is dedicated to its military and royal history.
Find dungeons which still have the names of prisoners carved on the doors and stroll along the battlements for views of the city below. In the Crown Room, you’ll find the Scottish Crown Jewels which were once thought lost for a century. They’re the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles.
Go museum-hopping
Since it’s Scotland, there’s a high chance that you’ll encounter rain. If that happens, the best thing to do is museum-hopping. Even if you’re spared rain, it’s still an excellent idea to add a few of these to your list.
Literary buffs should head to the Writer’s Museum and learn about Scotland’s proud literary heritage. You can see projects and artefacts from Scotland’s greatest writers such as Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson.
For natural history and anthropology, visit the National Museum of Scotland and for retro toys and games, head to the Museum of Childhood. Camera Obscura & World of Illusions is one of the oldest attractions in Edinburgh. Established in 1835 to showcase a moving picture of the city, it’s also now home to a befuddling collection of optical illusions.
Go shopping on Victoria Street
Whether you’re Christmas shopping or picking up souvenirs, Victoria Street offers a unique shopping experience. The gently curving cobblestone street is famous for its brightly-coloured shop fronts and Flemish-style architecture.
Victoria Street also has a strange history of the occult. Its famous resident, the notorious Thomas Weir voluntarily confessed to witchcraft in 1670 and it’s said to be the inspiration behind Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. Unsurprisingly, there are two wizard shops here as well as a traditional cheesemonger, clothes shops, a jeweller, a whisky shop and more.
Drink hot chocolate
Embrace cosiness on a winter trip to Edinburgh and the city has plenty of it. Think bars and pubs with roaring fires and cafes with squashy sofas and irresistible sweet treats. If you need to warm up and feel like something sweet, why not treat yourself to Edinburgh’s indulgent hot chocolates?
There are so many incredible contenders for the coveted spot of the best hot chocolate in Edinburgh but Uplands Roast, a small coffee stall in the Meadows is up there. They serve decadent cups of ‘proper hot chocolate’ with chocolate straws, toasted marshmallows and cinnamon. Vegan versions are also available.
The Marshmallow Lady is also a top place to go alongside Honeycomb & Co and Söderberg. The Milkman is a small coffee shop with amazing views of Edinburgh Castle.
Visit Edinburgh Christmas Market
Christmas is a magical time to visit Edinburgh. Practically every street is decked in twinkling lights and there are fun festive events throughout the city. The most popular one is the Edinburgh Christmas Market. Located in East Princes Street Gardens, the traditional German-style market is packed with stalls, fairground rides and places selling food and drink (hello mulled wine and raclette!).
The market runs for about seven weeks from about mid-November to the beginning of January. Admission is free and all stalls, rides and bars take cards. A word to the wise, if you want to avoid the crowds, aim for the morning. The afternoon and early evening get very busy.
Don’t worry, there are still festive activities you can do in the evening. Head to George Street West to find Edinburgh’s spectacular ice rink. The Dome also spares no expense with their Christmas lights. It’s located on George Street which is home to a glamorous collection of shops that go all out at Christmas.
Ring in the New Year at Hogmanay
No one celebrates the New Year quite like the Scottish. Their New Year is known as Hogmanay and it has roots in winter solstice and Viking celebrations. While Hogmanay itself is on the 31st of December, festivities last about three days in Edinburgh. If you happen to time your visit with the end of December and the beginning of January, there will likely be something going on.
A typical event during Hogmanay includes a torchlight procession with street performers, pipe bands, fire shows and drumming. There are dances, concerts, fireworks and a huge outdoor party where everyone breaks out into Auld Lang Syne as the clock strikes midnight. Heads up, you will need to buy tickets to attend the events and hotels around this time are pricey.
Conclusion
Winter is a magical time to visit Edinburgh. Temperatures may be colder and the days shorter, but the city is cosy, plus you can make the most of all the winter festivities and inviting bars and cafes. I hope this guide has inspired you to plan a trip to Edinburgh in the winter months – and remember, pack plenty of warm clothes!
For more articles about Scotland, check out my recommendations below:
Like it? Pin it!
Disclaimer: Some of the links on this website are “affiliate links.” This means that if you click on the link and do a purchase, I will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost for you. This helps me keep my website running and continue to share my travelling knowledge with you. I thank you for booking your flights or hotels using the links on my website. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will add value to my readers.
So jealous of the Christmas market!!! Would definitely love to be able to visit some day!
I can’t wait to visit Scotland after reading this!
Edinburgh is on the top of my bucket list. Hope to go there soon. I’m pinning your post for later. Thank you.