Visiting Alexandria was high on my list of things to do during my trip to Egypt. Having a friend living there, I was often treated to beautiful panoramic photos of the seafront, and when I finally decided to go to Egypt, I just had to include Alexandria in my itinerary. I ended up planning a one day trip to Alexandria from Cairo before I left Egypt.
As it was my first visit to Alexandria, and having already experienced quite some time in Egypt, I decided to hire a local guide to take me around the city. If you stay in Alexandria for more than a day, which I highly recommend after my trip there, then you can definitely go around on your own. But with limited time, it’s good to have a local show you around.
After searching for over an hour on Viator, I booked Rasha to be my guide in the city. I liked that the tour she offered was personalised to my liking, and it was private. I pretty much had her and her driver Kareem, who is also a guide, for the entire day. I was warmly welcomed on the train’s platform, as though I was a friend, not a client. By the end of the tour, I felt that I was indeed among friends. You can book the same guide by clicking here. I paid £53 for my private tour which included private transport as well.
Alexandria is so different from all the other Egyptian cities I visited during my 10 days trip to Egypt.
About Alexandria
Alexandria is the second-largest city in Egypt, with a population of over 5 million. The metropolis was founded by Alexander the Great in 331BC, and it is now one of the most fascinating cities along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Alexandria has been famous since the Ancient Times, when it was home to the famous Great Library of Alexandria and to one of the 7 Wonders of the Old World, the Pharos of Alexandria.
In Alexandria you will see the remains of many cultures, from Greek to Roman, to Egyptian, even British. This is because Alexandria was a very important city during all the previous Empires.
How to Get to Alexandria from Cairo
Bus
There are several bus companies that go from Cairo to Alexandria, the most popular one for tourists being Go Bus. They depart from Tahrir Square and arrive in Sidi Gaber in Alexandria. The journey time is around 4 hours if the traffic is light. The cost of a bus ticket from Cairo to Alexandria ranges from 90EGP (£3.7) to 165EGP (£6.8). You can click here to book your ticket online, ahead of time.
Train
I chose to go to Alexandria by train. There are hourly trains that leave Cairo for Alexandria. The trip is supposed to take two and a half hours, but this was not the case, as for both directions my train was late.
As a foreigner, you will want to book the VIP train, which costs between 70 EGP (£2.9) – 106 EGP (£4.4). This is the fast train, has air-conditioned and it is clean. There is an attendant on the train who will unlock a clean and unused toilet for tourists in return for a tip, of course.
You can buy return tickets in advance from the train station in Cairo. I tried buying a ticket online, but it was impossible to create an account, so I just popped into the ticket office after my train from Aswan to Cairo arrived at Ramses station. The ticket office for the VIP trains is located upstairs, past the café, at the end of the long corridor on the right-hand side. I had no issues buying the ticket, as everyone there spoke English.
Organised Tour
You can also choose to go on a day trip to Alexandria from Cairo on an organised tour. There are plenty of options that will pick you up from your hotel, offer transport, a guide, and drop you back off in the afternoon.
I was considering this option but, in the end I decided to do this trip on my own because I couldn’t find a tour that catered for a solo traveller. If you are interested in going on a day trip to Alexandria with a tour, here are some options below:
- Full day day trip to Alexandria with transport included
- Highlights of Alexandria from Cairo
- Alexandria day trip from Alexandria
Things to See on Day Trip to Alexandria from Cairo
The Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa
The first stop on my day trip to Alexandria itinerary was at the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa. The necropolis has been used since the beginning of the 2nd century AD and it is one of the most interesting sites I have visited in Egypt.
The archaeological site was discovered when a donkey slipped and fell through its access shaft, at the beginning of the 20thcentury. Located 100 feet below ground, access to the necropolis is down a circular staircase that descends around the shaft where the coffins would be lowered into the tombs. There are several burial chambers inside the necropolis, decorated with a combination of Egyptian, Roman and Greek elements, which makes the place so fascinating. There are sculptures from the book of the dead, which were common in the Pharaoh’s tombs in the Valley of the Kings, in Luxor, during Ancient Egypt. Underneath, there are sculptures of men wearing laurel crowns and women with Roman hairstyles. On both sides of the main funeral chamber, there are two sculptures of a snake showing Greek, Roman and Egyptian elements.
It is thought that the necropolis was meant to have been for members of a single-family, but then extended for many others. On the main level of the catacombs there is a funeral hall, where the relatives of the deceased would gather for the burial, or commemorations. They would bring food and wine, then break the ceramic containers, leaving them behind when they left, as they didn’t want to take them home from a place of death. On the wall, you can still see where the torches used to illuminate the hall had been.
Another interesting element of the catacombs is the Hall of Caracalla, which holds the bones of Emperor Caracalla’s horses.
Entry fee: 80 EGP (£3.3)
Serapeum and Pompey’s Pillar
Serapis was the Greco-Egyptian deity, protector of Alexandria. The Serapeum was a temple dedicated to him. Not much remains of the once majestic temple and it is hard to imagine what it used to look like in its glory days.
The only monument still standing inside the Serapeum grounds is Pompey’s Pillar. This impressive column was built after the victory of Emperor Diocletian. The monument is almost 27 meters tall, weighs 285 tonnes, and is made from pink granite from Aswan. It has a Corinthian capital and in ancient times, it held a 7 meter statue of the emperor in armour on the top.
Entry fee: 80 EGP (£3.3)
The Local Bird Market
It was very interesting to pass by the bird market in Alexandria. As mentioned in my article about what to eat in Egypt, the pigeon is a local delicacy. In the bird market you will see many pigeons sitting quietly on top of crates, waiting for buyers. There are also many chickens, hens, roosters, ducks, and quails.
The market had both livestock as well as poultry meat. I think that many of the mature live birds were sold for eggs and not for meat, as they were beautiful exemplars.
The Kom el-Dikka Amphitheatre
The Kom el-Dikka Amphitheatre is another fascinating place to visit in Alexandria. The amphitheatre was built in the 4th century, and it is the most complete Roman ruin in Egypt. The site was not discovered until the late 20th century when workers started digging the foundations for a new building.
The site of the Kom el-Dikka Amphitheatre is fascinating, starting with the main building itself. In the centre of the space is a small square, and if you stand there and talk, your voice will echo. The stones on which students would sit were numbered, but the earthquake in 535 destroyed the site and when it was rebuilt, they were not put back in order. However, their numbers are still visible.
The archaeologists have discovered 22 lecture halls at Kom el-Dikka, proving how important education was in Alexandria.
The complex also had a bathhouse and many residential buildings. One of them was the Villa of the Birds, and its mosaic decorated floor with images of birds and geometrical motifs, dating from the 1st century, remains intact.
Entry fee: 80 EGP (£3.3)
Bibliotheca Alexandrina – The Library of Alexandria
The Library of Alexandria is without a doubt the most famous thing about the city, even though the original one was unintentionally burned down in 48BC by Julius Cesar. His aim was to burn down the wooden ships of the Egyptian fleet, but the fire spread into the city and destroyed the library as well.
The Library of Alexandria was a modern institution of education, with an estimated 40,000 – 400,000 scrolls in its possession. Nobody knows for sure how many papyrus scrolls were inside the library when it burned down. It is also now known that some of the library survived and was just left in disrepair for centuries.
The new Library of Alexandria, Bibliotheca Alexandrina, was completed in 2002 and it is the work of a Norwegian team of architects. It is designed like a rising sun, with its tilting roof, in recollection of the lighthouse of Alexandria. The façade is carved with different symbols and hieroglyphs. The skylights have the appearance of half-open eyes, letting in plenty of light, but not direct sunlight, to avoid damaging the books.
Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a hub of culture that can host 8 million books and has space for 2,000 readers. Its hallways are covered with different exhibitions and works of art by local artists.
During my visit, because of Covid, we weren’t allowed to touch the books.
Entry fee: free, each museum has its own entrance fee. To enter the reading hall is costs 70EGP (£2.9)
The Antiquities Museum
The Antiquities Museum is located inside the Library of Alexandria and has an extensive collection of different objects found in and around the city. A lot of the artefacts were found in the sea. There are so many different things to see here, from many different eras.
Entry fee: 30EGP (£1.2)
Abu Abbas al-Mursi Mosque
I only glanced at the Abu Abbas al-Mursi Mosque from the outside, as my time in Alexandria was running out. It is a magnificent structure built in the 18the century. Whilst it is an active mosque, it does allow visitors. Women are not allowed in the main hall, regardless of whether they are locals or visitors.
The Corniche
Alexandria’s waterfront is long. 10 miles long! Also known as the Corniche, this beautiful promenade starts at the Citadel of Qaitbay and finishes at Montaza park. It is a great place to see the sunrise or sunset from.
There are several beaches alongside the Corniche, if you fancy taking a dip in the sea. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time for this.
The Citadel of Qaitbay
The last stop of my day trip to Alexandria was the Citadel of Qaitbay. This is where a long time ago, the majestic Pharos of Alexandria once stood. Its site is marked with a green pole which you can see from the walls of the citadel. The lighthouse was a majestic architectural wonder, over 100 meters tall which for centuries was the tallest man-made structure in the world.
The Citadel of Qaitbay was built in the 15th century using the last stones of the by then destroyed lighthouse. It was built as a defence fortress, part of the fortification of Alexandria. To this day it is one of the strongest fortifications along the Mediterranean Sea.
The Citadel is very beautiful and offers amazing views over the city from its walls. Inside, the citadel has a mosque with a gorgeous, patterned floor. You can climb up to the tower and watch the sea from the same place where the king did all that time ago.
Kareem told me that the citadel is the place where lovers like to meet up and spend romantic time together, watching the sea.
Entry fee: 80 EGP (£3.3)
Where to Eat in Alexandria
Street Food
As it was my last day in Egypt, I really wanted to eat shawarma for lunch, as it was my last chance to try this Egyptian street food staple. So, Kareem took me to his favourite street food shawarma vendor, who showed me how he makes this delightful dish.
Shawarma is popular all-over Middle East and Eastern Europe, but each country has its own recipes and variations. Whilst in Europe the most popular shawarma is inspired by the Turkish kebab, in Egypt it is mostly based on meat. I chose the beef option, and I watched carefully how the vendor made the wrap. He filled the Egyptian flatbread with plenty of meat, chopped greens, red onions, tomatoes, and a delicious yoghurt-based sauce. He toasted the wrap and gave me a pot of tehina, a delicious tahini-based sauce, on the side.
The Egyptian shawarma was different from any other shawarma I had eaten before, but it was just as delicious. I loved the crunchy texture of the wrap, as well as the combination of meat and tehina sauce. Delicious, well-balanced flavours! If you want to read more about the food in Egypt, check out my article about it by clicking here.
The King of Quail
Kareem and Rasha recommended the King of Qual restaurant as well, but as I was leaving before dinner, I didn’t get the chance to try it. They told me that it is a very popular restaurant among locals, where they serve the best quail dishes. They don’t even have a menu.
In fact, you won’t find this restaurant anywhere online, so, if you want to dine here, you must ask a local.
Staying the Night?
I really wish I could have stayed the night in Alexandria as I loved the city and I would have liked to see the nightlife along the seafront as well. But, as I had a flight at 8 am the following day, I had to return to Cairo.
If you are planning to spend the night in Alexandria, check out the historical Cecil Hotel. Located on the Corniche waterfront, this hotel opened in 1929. The hotel is overlooking the harbour and the Mediterranean Sea and it is elegantly decorated as a reminder of the 1940’s romantic decade. The Cecil has had some very famous guests over the years, from Winston Churchill to Al Capone.
A room at the Cecil Hotel starts at £66/night. You can check the reviews on Tripadvisor, or the latest rates directly on Booking.com
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This is giving me major high school vibes! Mainly because we studied about these places so much back then. I would love to go, and the catacombs look lovely to visit. I can’t wait to get to this part of the world — someday! It was fun to relive your travels at least.
While Alexandria is in my wishlist, I haven’t really gotten around to plan my itinerary there. So thanks for this guide. Also thanks for suggesting your guide Rasha for us. I will definitely book her too. Good to know there are hourly trains from Cairo. I always prefer train travel. The catacombs and amphitheater are just stunning. As a history buff this is totally my kinda place.