I just returned from a fantastic trip to Pisa. I had been feeling quite burned out lately, and before I managed to do any more damage to myself, I did what I always do in moments like this: I went back to Italy.
Italy has always been my happy place. Whenever life feels overwhelming, it’s the place I run to because it somehow has that healing touch that makes things feel lighter again. It’s a bit of a personal panacea. The last time burnout hit me badly, I actually moved to Tuscany for a while, settling in a small village between Pisa and Florence. Being back in this part of the world felt really good.
This time, I didn’t come to Pisa for sightseeing. Of course, the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa is always nice to see, but I had other things in mind. I wanted to slow down and reconnect with myself by embracing the local life of the city through the warmth of the people, the atmosphere of the streets, the local markets, and, of course, the food.
After spending quite some time in the city, I decided to put together this foodie guide on what to eat in Pisa, focusing on typical Pisan dishes that I love and think you shouldn’t miss.
Let’s be honest: most travellers only visit Pisa on a quick day trip, usually on their way somewhere else in Tuscany. They arrive, take the classic photo holding up the tower, and leave a few hours later. But when you only have one day in the city, the meal you choose whether it’s lunch or dinner, matters.
Hear me out: please stay away from the restaurants directly around Piazza dei Miracoli. You know the ones: waiters standing outside trying to lure you in, giant photo menus displayed at the entrance, and big signs advertising cheap aperitivos. You will regret it and the food will be mediocre. I promise that within ten minutes walk on the side streets you’ll stumble upon a small, authentic restaurant serving amazing food. If the menu is handwritten, even better. And if you notice that most of the diners around you are Italian, you’ll know you’ve found the right place.
All the dishes in this guide are based on my own foodie explorations around Pisa. So if you notice something missing, it means I didn’t get the chance to try it yet which, of course, just gives me another reason to return.
What to Eat in Pisa
Cecina
If you’re wondering what to eat in Pisa beyond pasta and traditional Tuscan dishes, one local specialty you absolutely have to try is cecina. This simple yet incredibly tasty street food is very typical of the coastal areas of Tuscany, especially around Pisa and nearby Livorno.
Cecina is a thin, savoury pancake made from chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. The mixture is poured into large round trays and baked in very hot ovens until it becomes golden and slightly crispy on the outside, while staying soft and creamy in the middle. When served, it’s usually cut into large slices and sometimes sprinkled with a bit of black pepper.
Despite its humble ingredients, the flavour is addictive, with a nutty profile.
During my time in Pisa, I noticed that cecina is mostly sold in bakeries, rather than in restaurants. In fact, I didn’t really see it anywhere else. Another thing I quickly realised is that if you want to try it, you shouldn’t wait too long. Most bakeries prepare it in the morning, and by lunch time it’s often completely sold out. Locals clearly know how good it is, and it disappears fast.
Pizza Pisana
Pizza is everywhere in Italy, but each region and sometimes each city has its own style. In Pisa, one of the local favourites is Pizza Pisana, which is quite different from the thin, crispy pizzas you find in places like Rome or Naples.
Pizza Pisana is known for its thicker, softer base. The dough rises more than traditional Italian pizza, creating a fluffy, almost bread-like texture inside while still keeping a slightly crisp bottom. Because of this deeper base, it can hold very generous toppings, making each slice quite substantial.
You’ll often find Pizza Pisana sold by the slice in pizza al taglio shops, where the pizzas are baked in large rectangular trays and cut into squares. It’s a quick, casual way of eating that works perfectly if you want something tasty without sitting down for a full restaurant meal.
I ended up trying Pizza Pisana after a slightly chaotic day trip to Viareggio. I was unlucky that my first couple of days in Pisa coincided with national train strikes. So, with all the cancellations, the journey back to Pisa took much longer than expected. By the time I finally arrived, all I wanted was a quick but tasty dinner.
I stopped at a supermarket to pick up some bresaola and smoked scarmorza cheese, and then headed to the nearest pizza al taglio place where I bought two slices of Pizza Margherita. It turned out to be exactly what I needed.
I loved how generous the toppings were. The mozzarella stretched for what felt like miles with every bite, and the tomato sauce had that fresh, slightly sweet flavour that Italian pizzas do so well. The base itself was thick, soft and fluffy, almost like focaccia but lighter. Simply yum!
Pasta With Wild Boar Ragù
One of the most delicious things to eat in Pisa, and in Tuscany in general, is pasta with wild boar ragù. Wild boar is widely used across the region and appears in many traditional Tuscan dishes. The meat is slow cooked with tomatoes, herbs, and red wine for hours, creating a deep sauce that pairs perfectly with pasta.
During my trip to Pisa, I tried a fantastic version of this dish that I’m still thinking about. I ordered ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, served generously covered in wild boar ragù, at a small restaurant tucked away on a quiet side street. I had been wandering around the centre looking for somewhere to have dinner and realised that many of the best restaurants in Pisa are closed on certain evenings, especially outside the high season. The ones that do open often start serving quite late. But I wasn’t going to let my make-up and evening outfit go to waste, so I kept looking.
I was lucky to come across Osteria di Culegna just as it opened at 7:30 pm. It was already fully booked for the evening, but because I arrived right when the doors opened, they were able to give me a table for about an hour, which was more than enough time for a solo dinner.
The menu was handwritten, with a few daily specials added as well. One thing I love about eating in Italy is that the specials are genuinely based on what’s fresh at the market that day, rather than leftovers from previous days, as in other countries.
When the plate of ravioli arrived, it looked simple but smelled incredible. The pasta was delicate but kept is shape very well, filled with creamy ricotta and spinach. The wild boar ragù on top was just screaming “eat me”. The slightly sharp taste of the cheese filling balanced beautifully with the deep, slow-cooked sauce. I couldn’t take a break in between mouthfuls.
It turned out to be the best meal I had during my trip to Pisa. The food was outstanding, but the experience was made even better by the warm welcome from the owner, who made me feel so looked after. If you want to try one of the most typical Tuscan dishes in Pisa, pasta with wild boar ragù should absolutely be on your list. Just make sure to book a table in advance, even outside the busy season, the best places fill up quickly.
Spaghetti alla Norcina
Another pasta dish you will often see on menus in Pisa is spaghetti alla Norcina. While this recipe originally comes from neighbouring Umbria, it has become very popular across Tuscany as well, and it’s a fantastic example of simple Italian cooking done right.
The star ingredient of the dish is Norcina, a very flavourful pork sausage traditionally seasoned with garlic and black pepper. You will find different versions of it across central Italy, and it’s commonly sold in local markets and small butcher shops. In spaghetti alla Norcina, the sausage meat is cooked alongside fresh cheep ricotta cheese, creating a creamy, delicious sauce.
I tried this dish at La Bottega di Anna i Leo, in nearby Lucca. The small restaurant focuses on cooking proper homely food rather than creating overly styled plates for Instagram. And I loved that.
I was lucky to grab the last outdoor table just before the lunch rush started. When the spaghetti plate arrived, it looked simple, but the aroma alone told me it was going to be good. The sausage was so flavourful and slightly peppery, while the cheese added a salty, creamy finish that tied everything together beautifully.
Seafood Pasta
Even though Pisa itself isn’t directly on the coast, the sea is very close. The Tuscan seaside is only about 15 minutes away, which means seafood features prominently on many restaurant menus in the city. Because of this proximity, you can expect some excellent fish and seafood dishes when exploring what to eat in Pisa.
During my trip I visited the market in nearby Livorno and was amazed by the selection of fresh seafood on display. There were huge prawns, fish that looked as if they had just been caught, and stalls filled with shellfish of every kind. At that moment I really wished my hotel room had a kitchen, because I would have happily bought some of those giant prawns and cooked them myself.
Back in Pisa, there are plenty of ways to enjoy local seafood. Many restaurants serve classic Tuscan coastal dishes such as stuffed mussels or spaghetti with clams. I ended up trying several seafood pasta dishes , and they quickly became some of my favourite meals.
One that really stood out was a seafood carbonara, a creative twist on the traditional Roman dish. Instead of pancetta, the pasta was packed with seafood, to the point where I though there was more fish than pasta on the plate. Paired with a chilled glass of Pinot Grigio, it was just perfect.
Another memorable dish was the penne with courgette and prawns in a delicate saffron sauce, which I ordered for lunch one day. The sauce was light and aromatic, letting the sweetness of the prawns shine through without overpowering them. Just perfect!
Lampredotto
Lampredotto can be a very controversial typical Tuscan dish. You will find it in Pisa as well as in other parts of Tuscany, and it’s a food with deep historical roots. It can be served in different ways: on its own in a hot terracotta bowl or tucked inside a schiacciata sandwich. Depending on where you order it, it might be topped with grated Parmigiano Reggiano, simmered in a rich tomato sauce, or, as I had it, prepared alla cacciatora, with olives and herbs.
But what exactly is lampredotto?
Lampredotto is made from the fourth stomach of a cow, a type of tripe. While that might sound intimidating at first, it’s actually a dish with a long tradition in Tuscany. The name itself comes from the lamprey eel, a fish that was once common in the Arno River. The texture and colour of the cooked tripe reminded people of this eel, which is how the dish got its name.
Lampredotto has been considered street food for centuries. During the Renaissance, in the 15th century, vendors would sell it from large pots in the streets of Tuscan cities. While the wealthy classes ate the prime cuts of meat, the working population made the most of the remaining parts of the animal, slowly cooking them to create flavourful and nourishing meals. Over time, lampredotto became a beloved speciality rather than just a necessity.
Personally, I don’t think you need to consider yourself particularly adventurous to try lampredotto. It’s more about approaching the dish with an open mind and letting the flavour convince you, rather than focusing on what part of the animal it comes from.
I tried lampredotto alla cacciatora at I Porci Comodi, whose name amusingly translates as “the comfortable pigs.” Instead of the sandwich version, I ordered a steaming bowl served with crusty bread on the side, perfect for dipping into the sauce.
The lampredotto itself was soft and tender, melting in the mouth, and it had absorbed the deep flavours of the olive and herb cacciatore sauce. It turned out to be far more delicious than I expected.
Tripa Alla Pisana
Another traditional dish you will come across one the menus around Pisa is trippa alla Pisana, a humble but delicious recipe. Like many classic Tuscan dishes, it originated as a way for ordinary people to make the most of inexpensive ingredients, turning simple cuts of meat into a good dinner.
Tripe dishes are common across Italy, and you will also find famous versions around. However, the way tripe is prepared in Pisa is quite different. In Rome, the dish often includes mint and pecorino cheese, giving it a fresh and slightly aromatic character. In Pisa, the approach is heartier. Trippa alla Pisana is usually cooked slowly in a rich tomato sauce with root vegetables such as potatoes and carrots, resulting in something closer to a thick stew.
I had the chance to try this dish at Osteria di Culegna, where it was the special off the menu. Judging by the tables around me, it was clearly a popular choice. I would say that more than half of the diners at the restaurant that evening had ordered it.
When my plate arrived, it was actually a steaming bowl of tripe stew, served alongside a slice of polenta. I added a good amount of Parmigiano on top and slowly worked my way through the dish. It was so good and I loved the texture of the trip against the softness of the vegetables.
Compared with the lampredotto, the tripe had a slightly firmer texture. Lampredotto tends to be very soft and almost silky after slow cooking, while tripe retains a bit more bite.
If you see trippa alla Pisana on a menu, it’s well worth trying. Again, don’t think of what it is, but how it tastes like, which is, delicious.
Schiacciata Sandwiches
If you’re wondering what to eat in Pisa when you want something quick but filling, you should definitely try a schiacciata sandwich.
Schiacciata is a type of flatbread typical to Tuscany. The name comes from the Italian word schiacciare, meaning “to press,” which refers to the way the dough is gently flattened before baking. It’s similar in appearance to focaccia but usually a bit thinner and crispier on the outside, while remaining wonderfully soft inside. Thanks to its structure, it makes the perfect base for sandwiches.
Outside Italy, these sandwiches became widely known thanks to All’Antico Vinaio in Florence, a shop that gained international fame and has since expanded to several locations in Italy and abroad. I’m pretty sure I’ve even heard of one opening in London recently. However, as with most chains that grow very quickly, the quality is not the same, so I would personally recommend seeking out smaller local places instead.
The branch of All’Antico Vinaio in Pisa looked empty whenever I passed by. The locals don’t seem to eat here. And that’s despite being located on the main road leading to the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. During my days in the city, I barely saw anyone going inside.
Instead, I headed to Stravizio, a small eatery close to the train station that is well known locally for its sandwiches. After looking at the menu for a while (everything sounded tempting), I chose one filled with lardo, pecorino cheese, pears, honey and walnuts.
It turned out to be an incredible combination of flavours. The bread was soft, slightly soaked with the honey from the filling, which made every bite rich sweet but salt at the same time.
Lardo, despite its simple name, is actually considered a delicacy in parts of Italy. It is cured pork fat, traditionally seasoned with herbs and spices and aged for several months. When sliced very thinly, it becomes silky and almost melts into the warm bread.
The sweetness of the pears and honey balanced beautifully with the salty pecorino and the richness of the lardo, while the walnuts added a pleasant crunch. I was told that in season the pears are replaced with fresh figs, which I can only imagine would make this sandwich even more delicious.
It was a very large sandwich but I happily sat down and enjoyed every single bite.
Torta co’ Bischeri
Torta co’ bischeri had me almost singing in the streets of Pisa.
While wandering through the city one afternoon, I stopped in front of a typical Pisan bakery window, admiring a row of beautiful rustic cakes. As I stood there trying to decide what to try, the owner suddenly came outside and started singing. It was such a spontaneous and joyful moment that it almost felt like an invitation to join him. Had I actually known the song, I probably would have sung along, even with my very questionable singing abilities. After all, nobody knew me, so why not?
Getting back to the cake though, torta co’ bischeri is one of the most traditional desserts from the area around Pisa. It’s a rustic pie made with a shortcrust pastry shell filled with rice pudding, chocolate, pine nuts, raisins, and candied citrus peel. The combination might sound unusual at first, but the flavours work beautifully together.
What makes this cake instantly recognisable are the “bischeri” — the small folded pastry corners around the edge of the pie. These little peaks are created by pinching and folding the pastry as the cake is assembled. In the local dialect, bischeri can loosely mean “little fools” or “silly ones,” and the name has become part of the dessert’s charm.
Traditionally, the cake is associated with the nearby town of Pontasserchio and the annual Festa di San Sisto, where it has been prepared for generations.
The slice I tried was rich but not overwhelmingly sweet. The creamy rice filling, studded with chocolate and dried fruit, contrasted nicely with the slightly crumbly pastry crust. The pine nuts added a gentle crunch, while the citrus peel brought a subtle brightness to the flavour.
Torta di Verdura Dolce
Among all the traditional dishes I tried during my trip, torta di verdura dolce was probably the most unusual dessert I encountered in Pisa. In fact, I ordered it mainly because it sounded so strange on the menu.
Just imagine reading this description: a shortcrust pie filled with chard, stale bread, pine nuts, raisins, cedar and cinnamon. It’s not exactly what you would expect from a dessert, is it? Naturally, my curiosity won and I ordered it.
As surprising as the ingredients might sound, the result was actually delicious. The pie wasn’t overly sweet, but it was very fragrant. The shortcrust pastry practically melted in my mouth, while the filling had a texture similar to a firm semolina pudding. The flavour itself was quite intriguing, something I had never tasted before.
If you’re someone who isn’t particularly fond of vegetables, this might be the perfect dessert for you as you’ll get your vitamins without really noticing them at all.
Final Words
As you can see, there is far more to eat in Pisa than the quick tourist meals many visitors settle for during a rushed stop in the city. Beyond the crowds gathering around the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa, you’ll find a wonderful world of typical Pisan and Tuscan dishes waiting to be discovered. Taking the time to explore the local restaurants, bakeries, and small eateries is truly worth it.
And you? What are you most excited about trying? Or do you have another suggestion for what to eat in Pisa the next time I visit?
For more articles about Tuscany, check out my recommendations below:
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What a great post! I ate quite a lot of pasta with wild boar ragu the last time I was in Pisa, so so good.
All the food choices sound amazing! I’m especially interested in trying the Torta di Verdura Dolce. It must be absolutely delicious!
This article made me hungry! These dishes all look so good. And it’s so good to know what the regional specialties are to really get the best food experience!