I was introduced to the wonderful cuisine of Svaneti as soon as I arrived at the hotel in Mestia, after an adventurous road trip on the mountain road covered with snow. The restaurant on the top floor of the hotel welcomed us with a wonderful spread of traditional Svan dishes, more than one person could eat in a single serving. The table was filled with colourful vegetable spreads, platters of local cheese, aubergines filled with walnut paste sprinkled with fresh pomegranate seeds, steaming meat pies, mouthwatering fried chicken in garlic and cream sauce, the customary khachapuri, and the most indulgent cheesy mash.
Over the following days, I tried pretty much everything there is to eat in Mestia and let me tell you, it’s a culinary adventure you don’t want to miss out on. If you’re planning a trip to this beautiful mountain region in Georgia and wonder what to eat in Mestia, let me be your guide to all the delicious eats you absolutely have to try. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!
The Svanetian Cuisine
The Svanetian cuisine reflects the rugged landscape and the harsh climate of the Caucasus mountains, especially during the winter months. Staple ingredients such as grains, potatoes, dairy products, and meat form the foundation of many Svanetian dishes, reflecting the region’s self-sufficient way of life. When the road closes, in winter, because of the snow, supplies are hard to reach the villages in the mountains, so the locals rely on long-lasting ingredients which they store in their cellars, over winter, to survive.
One of the defining features of Svanetian cuisine is its emphasis on simplicity and rural environment, with dishes often prepared using traditional methods such as open-fire cooking, pickling, and fermenting.
Among the most iconic dishes in Svanetian cuisine is Kubdari, a savoury meat pie filled with a flavourful mixture of beef or pork, onions, garlic, and aromatic herbs, seasoned with the unique Svanetian salt. Another beloved dish is Tashmijabi, a creamy and indulgent potato and cheese mash that represents comfort food in the harsh mountain climate.
Traditional Svan Ingredients
Svanetian Salt
Svanetian Salt is an essential ingredient in the traditional Svan cuisine, used in most typical dishes. It is the number one seasoning in the area, known for its distinctive flavour given by the unique ingredients ground into it.
The main ingredients used in Svanetian salt are common spices and herbs that are native to the region. These typically include blue fenugreek, dried marigold, and wild caraway flowers. Most of the families make their own Svanetian salt at home and the exact proportions of the ingredients vary depending on the personal preferences. To prepare Svanetian salt, the spices and herbs are dried and ground into a fine powder. The mixture is then combined with coarse sea salt and fresh minced garlic, to create a flavourful seasoning blend.
I have to warn you, that the Svanetian salt has a very pungent smell. I bought a homemade blend and the smell immediately took over my hotel room, even if it was packed in three separate bags.
Wild Carraway Flower
The wild carraway flower is a unique herb, used to season many of the traditional dishes in Mestia. Whilst the wild carraway flower is also one of the ingredients of the Svanetian salt, it is also used separately, in dishes that are not seasoned with this blend of herbs.
Characterized by its feathery foliage and delicate white flowers, the wild Caraway flower thrives in the Caucasus mountains in Svaneti, where it is meticulously hand-harvested by local foragers during the brief summer months. Its distinctively aromatic seeds possess a subtle yet complex flavour profile, reminiscent of traditional caraway with subtle floral undertones.
What to Eat in Svaneti
Kubdari
Kubdari is the most iconic dish of the Svantian cuisine. Even if this delicious meat pie is popular all over Georgia, it doesn’t taste as good as it does in Svaneti. This is because the special ingredients that make the seasoning of Kubdari are native to the Caucasus mountains in Svaneti, and you can’t really find them anywhere else. I was lucky to be shown how to make Kubdari from scratch, by Lali Nikoloziani at Lali’s Guesthouse, during an in-depth cooking class.
Kubdari is a beloved dish known for its hearty meat filling encased in a fluffy bread crust. The main ingredients used in Kubdari include beef or a combination of beef and pork, along with onions, garlic and Svaneti salt, which adds a unique flavour to the dish.
To prepare Kubdari, the dough is kneaded and left to rise, allowing it to become light and airy. Then, the meat mixture, seasoned with onions, garlic, and Svaneti salt, is wrapped in the dough and folded inside, creating a filled pastry. The dough is then flattened into the shape of a pie and baked on top of a wood-fired stove to achieve crispy edges before being transferred to the oven to finish cooking.
The taste of Kubdari is rich, meaty, and juicy, with the seasoning adding a fragrant aroma to the dish. Despite being baked, the meat retains its texture, providing a satisfying crunch with every bite. This is because the meat used to make Kubdari is not minced, but chopped in small pieces. A bit like the Italian pancetta. Kubdari is typically served hot and makes a comforting and hearty meal which doesn’t miss from any Georgian supra in Svaneti.
Svan Khachapuri – Petvraali
Khachapuri is without a doubt the most popular Georgian dish, famous all over the world. Svaneti however, has its own version of Khachapuri, called Petvraali. It’s the same delicious cheese-stuffed fluffy flatbread, with millet and wild carraway flower in addition to the classic ingredients.
For context, Georgia grows a lot of different grains, some of which are summer and some which are winter varieties, sustaining the production of bread. Millet is added to the filling of the Petvraali because it is rich in protein, fibre, and antioxidants, supporting the body to function in cold, winter temperatures. Many villages in Svaneti become isolated in winter due to snow and avalanches, so it’s essential to be able to store food that will last for a long time – such as potatoes, wheat, millet, and cheese.
To prepare Petvraali, the dough is made by combining flour, water, yeast, and salt, and then kneading it until it becomes smooth and elastic. The dough is then rolled out into a thin sheet and filled with a mixture of Imeretian cheese, millet, and salt. Sometimes, dried wild carraway flowers are added to the mix, for a unique, subtle flavour.
The edges of the dough are folded over the cheese filling, creating a sealed pocket of cheesy goodness. Once assembled, Petvraali is baked in a hot oven until the dough is golden brown and the cheese is melted and bubbly.
Usually, Petvraali is brought to the table hot, to accompany the cold appetisers which are already present on the table, before guests sit down to eat.
Tashmijabi
Tashmijabi is what cheesy dreams are made of. It primarily consists of two key ingredients: potatoes and cheese. To prepare this typical Svanetian dish, potatoes are first boiled until tender. Once cooked, they are mashed and returned to the stove, where fresh, 2-3 days old Svaneti cheese is added. The mixture is then stirred continuously until the cheese melts completely, creating a smooth and velvety texture. The result is an irresistibly cheesy and creamy potato dish with a unique stretchiness that puts Mozzarella to shame.
The cheese used in authentic Tashmijabi recipes is a speciality of the Svaneti region. Known for its distinct flavour and texture, this cheese resembles mozzarella but has a stronger taste. In other regions, where Svaneti cheese is not available, Tashmijabi is prepared using Sulguni cheese as a substitute.
Tashmijabi is one of the typical dishes in Svaneti that reflects the harsh winters that people go through in this region, up in the mountains. The simple ingredients that can be stored for a long time create a fantastic comfort dish that keeps you warm in the middle of cold weather. And I know it first hand, as I indulged in a lot of Tashmijabi whilst hiding away from the snowstorm outside, by the comfort of the wood fireplace in my hotel.
Svaneti Chvishtari
Chvishtari is another staple of the Svanetian cuisine. I first tried it in Zugdidi and found it quite heavy and tasteless. Later on, I learned that the Svanetian Chvishtari has an extra ingredient that makes the patty much lighter and flavoursome: millet.
The main ingredients used in Chvishtari are corn flour, eggs, milk, and Sulguni cheese, with the added millet in Svaneti. Making Chvishtari is easy, as Lali showed me in the cooking class I took in Mestia. All you have to do is simply mix corn flour, ground millet and grated Sulguni cheese in a bowl. Add the eggs and slowly add milk, the ingredients are kneaded into a dough until it reaches a consistency that does not crack when handled. The dough is then shaped into patties or flat discs. Traditionally, Chvishtari is cooked by frying it on both sides in a pan until golden brown and crispy. The cheese melts within the patties, creating a gooey and indulgent centre while the exterior develops a delightful crunch.
The best way to eat Chvishtari is hot, straight from the pan, to experience the gooeyness of the cheese inside.
Kartophlaar (or Kartofiliani Khachapuri)
Kartophlaar is another version of khachapuri, adapted in Svaneti to warm and give comfort to the body in the cold climate. The main ingredients in Kartophlaar are potatoes and cheese, encrusted inside a fluffy dough. The cooking process is very similar to the khachapuri, but instead of just cheese, potatoes are added to the mix.
Garlic Soup
I ate in plenty of restaurants during my two-week trip to Georgia. But only in one place I was given garlic soup, to warm up from the cold. It was a homemade soup, in someone’s house, in Mestia. And let me tell you, this soup tasted like eating hot, raw garlic. I love garlic and I believe that it should be the base of every dish, so I really enjoyed it in a liquid form. As for the cold – it definitely helped with warming me up.
Narchvi Cheese
Georgia has its own typical cheeses, but in Svaneti, the most popular one is the Narchvi. Until recently, this cheese has been mostly homemade. Now, however, you can find it commercially as well.
Narchvi cheese is made from cow’s milk, to which salt is added. The particularity of this cheese is that when it’s ready, it is kneaded, just like dough. After, it is tightly put in wooden boxes and left to age for a minimum of two months. Narchvi has a strong salty taste, quite nutty. Sometimes, it is used in making Chvishtari.
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i’ve never heard of Svaneti cuisine before but I was DEFINITELY salivating by the end of this post 🤤Tashmijabi looks AWESOME
On a cold winters night, these dishes sound hearty and amazing. I recently tried Georgian food for the first time and was pleasantly surprised with their creativity with vegetables, especially beets. Not sure what part of Georgia the food we sampled hailed from but I’m tempted to visit now!
Everything sounds so cheesy and delicious. I’m a big fan of savoury pies so I can’t wait to try Kubdari. Thanks for sharing
I have never been to Georgia but have come to appreciate its cuisine when living and visiting other countries. I have enjoyed reading your post to learn about many other tasty dishes that are not khachapuri :).
My goodness, the food looks fantastic. I wish I could get my hands on that salt!
I’d love to try the garlic soup. The food looks really good. Are gluten-free options generally available in restaurants?
Yes, a lot of the Georgian traditional food is gluten-free. I would say it’s harder to find gluten-free khachapuri (easier in Tbilisi), but most of the other dishes don’t use ingredients that have gluten.